SADF Radio Relay Truck - Gog

A Tdi clutch will attach to a 2.25 flywheel.

There are differences between 3 main and 5 main bearing engines, all have 8 bolt fixings. I'm not sure if they're all the same, but info know there are 3 main types.

1. 3 main bearing inertia starter
2. 3 main bearing pre engaged starter
3. 5 main bearing pre engaged starter

The only reason I can see you needing to use the 2.25 flywheel is that you're using a 3 litre engine, as the 2.6 flywheel/crank are different again.

As far as I'm aware the only major difference between 4 and six cylinder boxes is the bellhousing bolt pattern.
Further to that period 3 litre conversions generally used the 2.6 backplate with 2.25 flywheel and a six cylinder box, I've never heard of people needing major mods to make it all work.

On that theory (if you're willing to mod the 2.6 backplate) is to have it drilled to suit the 4 cylinder bolt pattern and assemble with the appropriate clutch.

Probably clears up very little.

You have guessed very close.

Its for my ex-SADF SIIB, need higher road speeds because there are tooooo many kilometres between places here in Australia. I drove from Melbourne to Sydney in it at 60-70KPH while B-Double semi trailers were whizzing past me at 110 KPH+, the trip took the best part of 2 days when you can drive it legally in 8 to 10 hours at 110KPH.

Using the R380 and Defender 1.41:1 LT230 will keep me very close to the original final drive of the 1 Ton box, will give me a lower low range and give me an overdrive 5th gear. The short bellhousing will reduce the overall length of the R380/LT230 and with a disk handbrake am hoping I won't have to modify or remove the crossmember behind the gearbox.

Yes a 3L westlake head Rover engine, hence the 4 cyl flywheel.

Yes am using the Land Rover 2.6L 6 cyl flywheel housing.

Using the OEM 6 cyl inertia starter.

The lip on the inside of the 4 cyl bellhousing is a larger diameter than the 6 cyl bellhousing and likewise a larger PCD/positions on the mounting bolts.

We have machined out the flywheel housing, built up extra aluminium on the outside where the studs have been relocated and moved the position of the cover plate over the starter dog to match the position of the 6 cyl starter.

Am still hoping to use the 3 bearing crank flywheel (its NOS) but is about 3 mm thicker than the 6 cyl one and need to know if I have to machine it down or do something else.

Still need to know the position of the spiggot bearing in relation to the surface of the flywheel face.

[ame]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m2/Auntikinus/Forward%20Control/Gog-of-Magog/Gog-from-magog004.mp4[/ame]
Click on the "Photobucket videos" title if you want to see how everyone leaves Gog behind.

To be honest I'd reckon you'd lose the 3mm extra thickness in the clutch release, as previously noted 'old school' 3 litre conversions using the standard six cylinder backplate and flywheel just got bolted together without issue.

If it's something that concerns you then it's probably not beyond the wit of man to have a 3mm spacer ring lasered out to go in between engine and box.
The 5 speeds are located on dowels anyways, so it's not a major issue to overcome.

Re spigots, I've got both 4 and 6 cylinder engines and gearboxes on the shelf at the moment, I'll get em measured up and report back, I suspect a comparison between the 2 would be more useful than just the Tdi one?
I'll also make the assumption that the 2.25 is the same as the Tdi in this department as the 4 cylinder box will not up to it without issue.

Anything else that may be of use just shout.

I'd also add a cooling system upgrade might not be a bad idea? I have a few photos somewhere of a 3 litre IIB with a full width 110 radiator mounted in up front. I'll dig em out.

I'm adding an oil cooler off a military six cylinder and had a tropical core added to the original radiator. The R380 will also have a transmission cooler. We'll see how those go first.

I do have access to both series 4 cyl and 6 cyl but none of these fancy modern turbo charged thingos. :angel: However I'm of the opinion that the important factor is how an R380 interfaces with it's standard engine, particularly its primary pinion hence the request about Tdi. A series spiggot bearing won't help because I wont be using a series primary pinion.

I was interested to find out that the spigot bush has remained unchanged ( same part number ) in it's dimensions from the early rover engines ( pre 80" ) to the end of the TD5, only with the exception of the spigot bush for the V8's.

The throwout race positioning isn't a problem, but how far into the spigot the gearbox input shaft enters would need to be watched, have a look at the wear marks on a old shaft as there maybe still plenty of travel left for the input shaft to go in that bit further.
.

Spent the day in cookey's "chook shed", some will know about that, anyhow it's the place where my R380 and Gog the SIIB are currently situated. So lots of measuring re-mesuring, talking and contemplating.

The flange on the rear of the 3 litre engine stands off the back of the block by 41mm, the 2.6 litre stands off only 30mm, however the 4 cyl flywheel is 5mm deeper on the crank interface than the 2.6 flywheel leaving 6mm. It looks like we'll have to take the crank off the 3 litre engine and machine it down the 6mm as well as relieve it for the spiggot bush.

I also have to machine 2/5" out of the recess in the 4 cyl flywheel to fit over the flange on the back of the 3 litre crank.

All this is before we can even consider the final position of the flywheel face.

We may just convert the gearbox on the original 2.6 litre and do the 3 litre when the gearbox work is finished.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

I was interested to find out that the spigot bush has remained unchanged ( same part number ) in it's dimensions from the early rover engines ( pre 80" ) to the end of the TD5, only with the exception of the spigot bush for the V8's.

The throwout race positioning isn't a problem, but how far into the spigot the gearbox input shaft enters would need to be watched, have a look at the wear marks on a old shaft as there maybe still plenty of travel left for the input shaft to go in that bit further.
.

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Quite right the short bellhousing pinion is the same spiggot OD as a series pinion.

Unfortunately there are no wear marks on the old pinion because it is a new kit from Ashcrofts, by way of Isuzurover, thanks again Ben.

BTW the clutch throwout bearing on the short bellhousing is about 1/2 the thickness of the regular R380, so I may not have a lot of room to play with.

Was taking apart a Disco 1 R380/LT230 today. Previously my only experience was a LT77/LT230 which had a Hydraulic PTO and a county LT230 partically dissassembled.

The question relates to the rear PTO cover, a LT85 I have has a tin cover the Disco one has a cast alloy one. Underneath the disco cover is a second plate device with a knotch assuming so it can be prised out.

What is it and do people have part numbers for it as one of my boxes doesn't have it. (the parts manual isn't clear in this location.)

Diana

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Was taking apart a Disco 1 R380/LT230 today. Previously my only experience was a LT77/LT230 which had a Hydraulic PTO and a county LT230 partically dissassembled.

The question relates to the rear PTO cover, a LT85 I have has a tin cover the Disco one has a cast alloy one. Underneath the disco cover is a second plate device with a knotch assuming so it can be prised out.

What is it and do people have part numbers for it as one of my boxes doesn't have it. (the parts manual isn't clear in this location.)

Diana

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There are two rear cover plates. Pressed steel and cast alloy. In front of either is the rear bearing housing, which is about an 8mm thick alloy flange. This is the same on all boxes, but there are 2 types - for 2 different input gear bearing spacings.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2013/08/49.jpg

This one is FTC4866, but not sure if that is the correct one for your box.

Thanks Ben

The plate doesn't have a bearing in it but I guess it could be a shim or spacer of some sort.

I want to fit a County/Defender 1:1.41 ratio LT230 onto a Disco R380 as they are the boxes I have, but the county LT230 box came to me unattached to a gearbox and I now think incomplete.

Can I use the Disco LT230 bits in the County LT230?

Diana

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Thanks Ben

The plate doesn't have a bearing in it but I guess it could be a shim or spacer of some sort.

I want to fit a County/Defender 1:1.41 ratio LT230 onto a Disco R380 as they are the boxes I have, but the county LT230 box came to me unattached to a gearbox and I now think incomplete.

Can I use the Disco LT230 bits in the County LT230?

Diana

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Which bits from the disco do you want to use?

Are they both LT230T's?

It will not be a good idea to mix gears for example, even if they are able to be assembled.

Some versions had a plate to improve lubrication of the spline in the input gear. It wasn't in earlier cases, or later cases after the change to a cross-drilled gear.