Thread: Isuzu C240 powered Series 3

Originally Posted by MuckUte

This is what I use for pressing bearings etc...., I have a couple of different sizes around 20 bucks at hong kong hardware if i remember

Not quite sure how that relates to fitting brake shoes ?!

Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

Not quite sure how that relates to fitting brake shoes ?!

Colin

It was in relation to pressing the drive shaft bearings on and off as mentioned in the quote below, should have added the quote. My bad.

Originally Posted by gromit

I need to make a puller or a split ring to allow the inner roller bearing race to be pressed off the drive shaft. The one I removed from the spare axle needs an inner race fitted, a new UJ and some work with a file on the splines......



Colin

I've been busy painting for the last week or so, plus I had to fix a few issues with SWMBO's car.
I was allowed some time to work on Wallit today (because it's too hot to paint !)

Time to work on the rear axle, I'd removed the RHS rear some time ago and all looked well. Decided to work on the LHS and found the brake linings worn to almost nothing.

DSCN2089 by Colin Radley, on Flickr



Not sure if the wheel cylinder has siezed or whether because the drum was difficult to remove the linings haven't been replaced at the same time as the RHS ?
Back to work on Monday so I can organise some replacement shoes or get the originals re-lined depending on the costs.


Noticed some severe corrosion in an unusual place when removing the wheel, looks like I'll need another rim !

DSCN2093 by Colin Radley, on Flickr



I'll have to drop the tank to remove the RHS spring but I'll re-fit the bolt the other way round when I put it back together. Not 'original' but certainly more practical.



Colin

The slave cylinder was free so it seems the brake shoes haven't been self-centering. Worn to nothing at one end of the lining but the other end was untouched.
Had my brake man, the father-in-law, look at the shoes & backplate and he picked up that if you adjust the brakes before you apply them hydraulically for the first time they will struggle to self-centre. I'll make a note of that, slacken off all the adjusters and apply the brakes hydraulically before adjusting in future.

Great to be back at work, took a quick spin along the street and picked up a set of new LWB rear brake shoes for $40 (cash, no receipt). It's getting more expensive to get them re-lined rather than buy new.


Colin

Sorry to interrupt there Colin, but the Territory (2wd) had a major recall done on front lower ball joints/ radius arms, an upgrade was performed after several front ends collapsed.
http://www.fordaustraliaforums.com/f...joint-collapse
The recall is free, and is retrospective. One of my customers had theirs done before chrissy, they are the second owners and knew nothing about it, it appears the first owner ignored the ford warning letters

JC

Originally Posted by justinc

Sorry to interrupt there Colin, but the Territory (2wd) had a major recall done on front lower ball joints/ radius arms, an upgrade was performed after several front ends collapsed.
Ford Territory front ball joint collapse
The recall is free, and is retrospective. One of my customers had theirs done before chrissy, they are the second owners and knew nothing about it, it appears the first owner ignored the ford warning letters

JC

Thanks Justin,
My old Territory (now the wife's) has had the lower ball joints replaced twice, once after 5 years and still covered by warranty.
I was replacing caster ball joints & bushes.

The Territory is a great car but once they get old there are a lot of problems with diff bushes, ball joints etc. The front diff bushes require the engine to be lifted up to replace them with the original type ! I'm fitting Nolothane bushes soon, more NVH but it's only a school run car.


Colin

Started working on one of the rear springs tonight, they were doing the job on Wallit OK but they seem to be a bit of a mix of parts.

DSCN2099 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

It seems to be made from one thick leaf two thin leaves, then a thick then three thin then two heavy overload/rebound leaves.

One of the clamps holding the pack together has been welded in place and one of the rebound straps has a loose rivet.

DSCN2102 by Colin Radley, on Flickr


The rivet I'll try and hammer out if I can get the springpack onto my anvil (maybe I'll weld it as a temporary measure !).

The plate the shock absorber mounts to is tired, shock absorber pin built up with weld and bent, holes for U-bolts worn oversize etc.....

DSCN2106 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

The shackles are also worn.

DSCN2108 by Colin Radley, on Flickr


I could just turn the shackles around the other way and use the flat side against the springs. I might try and hunt down some replacements and also a shock absorber mount.

There were some spare springs that came with Wallit but I think they are fronts, the diesel SIII I parted out had good fronts but the rears were cactus so I'll probably persevere with these springs for the time being.

Hub parts are painted and ready to go back together.
I'm now using Dupli-Color Caliper Paint for the brake backplates. After testing it proved to be brake fluid resistant whereas the 'epoxy' paint I was using didn't like brake fluid at all....


Colin

IME those 2-stage springs flex well, but are also prone to snapping leaves, which probably explains your leaf thicknesses. Spring steel <5 mm thick is just about unobtanium these days.