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Thread: Fuel economy ugly, shock absorber tips

  1. #1
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    Fuel economy ugly, shock absorber tips

    Hi All, loving my new beast. Except for the fuel economy. Ive noticed my car has been chipped (Unichip). Should i remove it and if so how? Also the MAF sensors, do they need to be cleaned? I have replaced the air filter, will be doing plugs next week although they look ok.. Any other tips?

    Also i am after new shock absorbers and am after ride comfort more than handling. Any tips? I've got a quote for OEM shocks $100 a corner. Seems reasonable..

  2. #2
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    Hi daljames, yeah $100 is about right for Boge shocks but for Bilstiens you'll pay about $200 each. Good shocks though.

    PS67

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by daljames View Post
    Hi All, loving my new beast. Except for the fuel economy. Ive noticed my car has been chipped (Unichip). Should i remove it and if so how? Also the MAF sensors, do they need to be cleaned? I have replaced the air filter, will be doing plugs next week although they look ok.. Any other tips?

    Also i am after new shock absorbers and am after ride comfort more than handling. Any tips? I've got a quote for OEM shocks $100 a corner. Seems reasonable..
    Shocks sound reasonable and approprate to your needs, what do yuou rate as poor fuel economy? What is the L/100kms figure on trip computer?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by DT-P38 View Post
    Shocks sound reasonable and approprate to your needs, what do yuou rate as poor fuel economy? What is the L/100kms figure on trip computer?
    Thanks so far people, i think ill stick with the originals Boges.

    Fuel is around 22l/100km if im real careful. Live on the Northern Beaches of Sydney, so some hills. My old HSE averaged around 16.

  5. #5
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    My P38 had a Unichip which started fighting the Engine ECU so it was removed. Removing should be fairly simple process.

    I'll check the wiring harness on mine and let you know... my notes have
    green to white/red
    grey to white/black
    white to black

    22L/100Km is way too high. I get approx 19-20 around town and I don't drive economically

    Cleaning the MAF is easy - use isopropyl alcohol from JayCar and a can of compressed air. I haven't done a write-up yet, but there are some pics of disassembly and cleaning at MAF Clean

    Changed the air filter... good. Change the pollen filters too. Your A/c will appreciate it.

    Boges are far more comfortable than Bilsteins, but Bilsteins handle better... although I am currently testing some 12 way adjustable shocks that will sell at Hard Range for around $200-220 each when I work out the right combination for the lift kit. I'll be looking for a "volunteer" with a stock p38a to test the standard length shocks in the near future

    Cheers, Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulP38a View Post
    My P38 had a Unichip which started fighting the Engine ECU so it was removed. Removing should be fairly simple process.

    I'll check the wiring harness on mine and let you know... my notes have
    green to white/red
    grey to white/black
    white to black

    22L/100Km is way too high. I get approx 19-20 around town and I don't drive economically

    Cleaning the MAF is easy - use isopropyl alcohol from JayCar and a can of compressed air. I haven't done a write-up yet, but there are some pics of disassembly and cleaning at MAF Clean

    Changed the air filter... good. Change the pollen filters too. Your A/c will appreciate it.

    Boges are far more comfortable than Bilsteins, but Bilsteins handle better... although I am currently testing some 12 way adjustable shocks that will sell at Hard Range for around $200-220 each when I work out the right combination for the lift kit. I'll be looking for a "volunteer" with a stock p38a to test the standard length shocks in the near future

    Cheers, Paul.

    Thanks heaps Paul. If you could let me know the wires that would be great., although there is a lot more than just three wires running from the chip to the ECU.

    Ill be in touch next week or two (when i get the free cash..) for the brake modulator parts too.

    My shocks are too far gone to wait for any longer so ill be getting the Boges next week. Much as i would've liked the idea of the adjustment!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by daljames View Post
    Thanks heaps Paul. If you could let me know the wires that would be great., although there is a lot more than just three wires running from the chip to the ECU.

    Ill be in touch next week or two (when i get the free cash..) for the brake modulator parts too.

    My shocks are too far gone to wait for any longer so ill be getting the Boges next week. Much as i would've liked the idea of the adjustment!
    Here you go... Unichip ECU removed and connector still in place showing wire bridges. One day I'll get around to removing the connector and wiring too.


    cheers
    Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  8. #8
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    Thanks Paul, my wires are a different colour and in different positions so i just followed it all back to the ECM and all good. Ill take it for a drive over the weekend and see if the economy is any better!

  9. #9
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    I doubt it. It's more likely to be a sensor problem such as the MAF.
    My unichip has been stable for 5 years now.
    There is now only one Unichip tuner in Sydney. If you want to have it tuned please ask and I will dig out his details.
    Regards Philip A

  10. #10
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    Will a dirty MAF sensor show up as a fault? I do have a code reader for the ECM... Ill clean none the less though. Being a GEMS, and a different type of sensor to the one shown in Pauls MAF cleaning page, any tips on the clean?

    Philip is your chip tuned for power or economy? I think i found the place with some googling that still does the Unichip tuning.

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