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Thread: Need more towing power badly

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Need more towing power badly

    Guys

    I have owned my 1998 RR P38 4 litre for around 3 months now.
    Absolutely wrapped with everything about it, especially the wonderful ride the EAS system provides.
    My wife loves the sheer comfort & especially the lovely climate control.
    I have LPG fitted (standard vacuum induction type) which seems to run better on gas then on petrol so fuel economy isn’t an issue.

    But the problem I’m having is lack of power when I tow my camper trailer.
    My off road camper trailer when fully loaded weighs in at around 900-1000kg when it’s all packed & loaded.
    Cruising along at 100km on flat roads or Highways isn’t a problem but as soon as I encounter a semi steep hill of any sort this is where my issues begin.
    There is just a massive lack of pulling power. Doesn’t matter if I’m on petrol or gas, it makes no difference.
    I’m having to gear down to 2nd gear & keep the revs high just to get to the top.
    The speed will drop down to 60km/h or lower depending on the steepness then the slow climb to the top begins.
    Since I like to go camping with the family often, normally within the High country or alpine area’s I do encounter many hills.

    I was expecting the V8 4 litre to have a bit more punch then this.
    Have I made a mistake by getting a 4 litre & should i have purchased a 4.6 instead or a disco TD5?
    Do all the 4 litre behave in the same manner when towing similar weight? I didn’t think 1000kg was that much really.
    I really thought the P38 was going to be a superb towing vehicle so I’m slightly disappointed in this area.

    Has anybody got any suggestions which may help me with this issue.
    I was thinking maybe extractors or a smoother flowing exhaust system could assist, maybe.
    Your input or suggestion would be really helpful.

    thanks

  2. #2
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    You can have the ECU chipped & some plenum mods done but there is no substitute for engine capacity.

    Have you had the car checked out for any faults?
    Or are you able to drive a similar car for comparism?
    Scott

  3. #3
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    IMHO the problem isn't so much lack of torque but where it is developed.

    The 4.0l makes maximum torque at something like 3K revs, while 100Kmh is about 2200 Revs.
    Unless you anticipate hills and change back to 3rd or even second as you note then you will struggle to maintain speed.
    The Thor manifold of 1999 addressed this by increasing torque lower in the band.
    You have a GEMS system and gains from Piggyback chips are AFAIK pretty small.
    I cannot help but think that there may be something wrong with your car eg badly carboned exhaust valves that maybe trigger knock sensors early, or a plug/lead breaking down and that it is missing on one or more cylinders which is sometimes hard to pick at speed in a V8.

    My 3.9 Classic with Thor manifold, head mods and piggyback tows my 700 Kg loaded camper up hills easily. I climb Mt Ousley at Wollongong at the 80Kmh limit alternating between 3rd and unlocked 4th, and it is one of the steepest highway hills in Australia. A 38A is heavier but has a much better injection system.
    A 4.6 with a Thor manifold would help a lot, but have an expert check out you engine. BTW do you have vapour injection or a "gas ring" as the gas ring will reduce mid/high end power considerably, particularly if the fitter has fitted a small one .
    Regards Philip A
    BTW check that the accelerator opens the throttle blade fully.
    Last edited by PhilipA; 4th January 2011 at 01:06 PM. Reason: more info

  4. #4
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    If you have an Impco model 200 mixer fitted this is like a cork in the inlet. Remove it and try it on petrol without it fitted. If it is hugely better, then get a proper gas system, either 46mm bore mixer and european (complex) converter or injection.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Melbourne
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    Hello,
    I regularly tow a 800kg Boat/Trailer combination and have very little problems with Downshifts ete on the Range Rover. This is both on a 4L & 4.6L. The 4L is straight Petrol at the moment and the 4.6L is Petrol/Sequential Injection Gas. The 4.6L is marginally better when using the Gas than the 4L, but I haven't noticed any huge differences.

    I would be interested to see what would happen if you were able to take the LPG Injection out of your Air Flow route and see what happens running on just petrol. I'd also be inclined to try and run some SeaFoam or similar Upper Cylinder Head Cleaner through the Intake system as well.

  6. #6
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    Get it Dynoed, that way you can see if it is making the power that it should.
    And you can have a tune up as well.
    I recently had mine on the dyno and picked up 6 kilowats and it is running really nice now.
    Put some OEM plug leads on it i would say they are the original ones and now 12 years old.

  7. #7
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    adm333 recently found out the hard way that plugs (and maybe leads) for dual fuel engines are different to those for petrol only. I was surprised about this, but maybe it is something to look at?

    Other than that, check the basics like vacuum leaks around inlet manifolds, air filter condition, maf sensor operation etc. Good luck.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    My 96 4.6 dual fuel is exactly the same when towing. I've had it to a trusted Rangie expert and he said it went great, not towing.

    I think its true. you need to have the revs right up. Down change before the hill and floor it. It doesn't seem to matter how its driven the fuel consumption seems about the same.

    If I can get an inlet hose I might try removing the gas ring and see if that helps.

    Trev

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Victoria
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    Thanks for all the good advice & tips guys.
    I'll certainly be taking them all on board.
    I had better just add that just recently I had the heads off and reconditioned after a head gasket blew just after I brought my Rangie.
    Afterwards the compression tests were all very good for an engine which has done 187,000km. All the plugs, leads and filters were replaced. It had the full service.
    My mechanic who is a family member is pretty anal with the way he works.
    Every vacuum hose was checked. He discovered 2 cracked vacuum hoses and a hidden split on the underside of the main air inlet hose. I thought i wasn't too bad with tinkering with cars but couldn't believe I missed these faulty hoses.
    And I also had my radiator reconditioned as well just in case.
    Besides a faulty idle stepper motor which he couldn't source because they are hard to come across the car was running superb.
    When I'm not towing the car is fantastic. Runs a treat.
    I'm starting to think that maybe it's the way I drive.

    Thanks once again guys for all the input.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    it's not the way you drive... the 4L and the 4.6L are generally low compression models. With barely 200hp on the 4.6 and probably over 3tonnes all up with a camper trailer, the power/weight ratio is less than satisfactory for medium/steep grades, especially since the torque is only effective above 2500-2700 rpm...which is above the legal limit in top gear. I discovered that the long grades on the Pacific Hwy between BNE and SYD were best "attacked" in the 110kmh zone, at 115kmh where the drop in speed was only about 10kmh and we sailed over the hill in top gear. However on the same grade at 95kmh, I had to drop back to second gear and finally went over the top at 70kmh in third...

    A mild turbo boost would be very useful in such circumstances...

    A 5 or 6 sp auto would probably be a better bet.....the ratios are widely spaced on the standard 4sp ZF box

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