Thread: Lucky 8's Project P38

Project Update : Pop goes the ?

Have you ever heard a drive line noise that you instantly knew was catastrophic? I did at VOT last year and the Rhino appeared to be lacking FWD.



Once the truck was free from the obstacle everything worked fine. I just scratched my head and went on for the next 2 days of the trip.



Pic nicked from Bryon Dorr


I heard this gut wrenching noise again at Rovers on the Rocks. I was positive there was no FWD. We jacked up the truck to test it and … Nothing. Everything worked as it should. Again I found myself scratching my head.



Back at the shop we pull the CVs, Diff and 1/2 shafts. Yep you guessed it





Unfortunately the next thing was the T-case and out it came. There was a ton of metal shavings in the fluid.



One of the bearings was completely shot but this would not account for the lack of FWD.



Hoping against all odds that the welded center viscous was still good, I popped it open and found
.
.
.
.
.
this.



The end result was some of the teeth on the spider gears snapped off.



As the broken teeth bounced around the viscous unit it would spontaneously lose FWD. We maybe asking to much from the T-case but I’m going to give it another college try with a welded center.

Thats all for now, enjoy the frosty poser pic.

Originally Posted by FiveSPDDisco

We will not and normally a snorkel reduces fuel economy.

Fuel economy figures?

Nothing scientific, just if you noticed an increase in fuel economy.

That's a bugger about the transfer case.

Originally Posted by FiveSPDDisco

Snorkel update
Incase you don't want to read below this is were we are at. The snorkels are done except for the tops. We are just waiting on the next batch to be completed. The goal is to keep them around the same price as other snorkels. $400USD -$500USD

As always we will do our best for the members of this forum.

Any further updates?

I'm keen to get an order placed for a snorkel as soon as they are available so a direct link to the product when it's on your site would be appreciated (I find your site hard to navigate)

Thanks

Bring on the snorkels

Lucky8’s Project P38 Update : Been gone too long

First off, sorry for the lack in updates but I think this post will make a few people happy.

Snorkel

Say it with me S N O R K E L



Finally all the pieces are done and ready to go. So without further adieu, here is what it takes to do the install.

Put the template on the hood.



Mark the cut out portion with a scribe.



Remove the hood and cut the unwanted section out.



Remove the fender and inner fender plastic mud guard.
Put the template on and cut the unwanted section out.



Notch out the pillar trim piece to make room for the snorkel tube mounting tabs.



Align the notches with the upper existing screw hole. Use a self tapping screw to mount the bottom tab.





Remove the air box from the engine bay



Remove the trumpet nose section



File down the tabs on the inner trumpet section for removal.



Remove inner trumpet section



Clean out the air box and seal all the factory drain holes with RTV



Cut the outer ring off of the internal trumpet section




Generously apply RTV to the end of the internal trumpet piece and slide on the PVC hose.



Slide the PVC hose through the old air intake opening. Take care not to cut the PVC hose on the inner fender.




Generously apply RTV to the end of the internal trumpet piece and slide it back into the air box. Seal the remaining holes with RTV.



Generously apply RTV to the end of the snorkel in the fender well and slide on the PVC hose. Drill a 1/4 hole and attach the PVC hose clamp to the inside of the fender. Tuck the PVC hose above the inner fender plastic mud guard



The inner fender plastic mud guard will have to be reworked to make room for the PVC hose.



Use a heat gun on the inner fender plastic mud guard to bend it back into place.




Install the rubber trim pieces on the hood and fender cut off sections.



Lastly, generously apply RTV to the snorkel top and install.



Let me know what you guys think. The poser pic here is the stock truck that gave up a hood and fender for testing purposes.

Only part I don't like is the ribbed hose, laminar flow will reduce the effective ID considerably. Lots or turbulent air slowing flow down. That said it should be fine, but silicon bends and straight pipe (PVC Even) would be better.

But I'm a perfectionist.

Originally Posted by clubagreenie

Only part I don't like is the ribbed hose, laminar flow will reduce the effective ID considerably. Lots or turbulent air slowing flow down. That said it should be fine, but silicon bends and straight pipe (PVC Even) would be better.

But I'm a perfectionist.

No reason why you couldn't source your own hose and elbows. Is the posting to aid DIY or to advertise their wares?

Justin said "Let me know what you think"

So Justin told him what I thought.