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Thread: EAS valve block rebuild - frustration!

  1. 31st January 2014, 08:00 AM #41
    davidsonsm's Avatar
    davidsonsm
    davidsonsm is offline Wizard
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    So the saga continues. Finally managed to get the car to stay at the prescribed height overnight - after replacing another solenoid valve (RR) for one that I'd taken the fine sandpaper to - after regluing the rubber plug in.

    But I've increasingly been seeing eratic behaviour and getting subsequent faults - one of which was high pressure (170psi on the gauge). The compressor running light I've installed was on all too often. The eratic behaviour was its desire to be in "offroad" height (down boy!). I know the pressure switch is good - after doing the resistance test - its a new one. So that led me to the driver module.

    If there was a Guiness Book of Records record, for removing the EAS valve block, I'm surely a contender.

    I put in a spare driver module that I had. But that was even worse. The dash lit up like a Christmas tree. So this morning at 6:15am, I put yet another spare driver module in. After clearing the residual faults, all appeared well - apart from a slight lean to the right (I'll have to check the EAS settings and readings again). But after driving to work, the inevitable fault appeared.

    Any suggestions. Looks like I'll be buying a new driver module - to ensure that's tickaty boo.
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  2. 31st January 2014, 08:57 AM #42
    TheTree
    TheTree is offline ChatterBox
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    Bloody hell mate world record for sure !! I notice there is a guy selling a driver module on eBay at the moment if that helps

    Good luck with it

    G'day from San Francisco as well :-)


    Steve
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  3. 31st January 2014, 09:42 AM #43
    Hoges
    Hoges is offline YarnMaster Subscriber
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    A dodgy driver module will cause erratic behaviour of the valve block. As you have probably noticed, it's sealed on the reverse side with an epoxy material. If the epoxy is badly discoloured e.g. looks like heat-shocked chocolate and is still original, then it's reasonable to expect the driver module is due for replacement. British Parts UK is a handy website to get a price indicator ..."Air Suspension Drive Box" ANR3900 (210GBP /AUD$ 393) Air Suspension Drive Box - ANR3900 | Range Rover P38A | Range Rover | British Parts UK.
    Local suppliers (e.g. Karcraft) are asking around $550.
    cheers

    EDIT: I don't know if the cable length between the driver box and solenoids is critical, I doubt it... the reason I raise this is because I have, as a long term project, the idea to relocate the drive box to a less heat prone location...e.g. in the cabin on the bulkhead wall for example... could then last a lot longer.
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
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  4. 31st January 2014, 10:47 AM #44
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    davidsonsm
    davidsonsm is offline Wizard
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    Here's a theory. The driver module issue may have coincided with me swapping the RR solenoid valve. I left the rubber pill/pellet in the end of the valve a little proud - in the belief that it would help sealing.

    If this has caused the valve to be too tight on the seat, would the solenoid struggle to lift the valve - and hence cause driver damage/faults?

    I'm not sure how much the magnet of the solenoid lifts the plunger. Anybody know?
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  5. 31st January 2014, 02:26 PM #45
    PeterAllen
    PeterAllen is offline Master Supporter
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    When I had issues with the top pellet in my rebuild I had on one occasion left one a little proud and it caused a further fault shortly after. I then glued it in flush with the stem top as were the others and gave it a light sanding with wet and dry (1500) grade and has resolved my issue. I would recommend making it flush, although I dont know for certain if it had any effect other than circumstantial.
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