HI
I assume you have pulled the EAS delay relay and checked what happens without that.
If it is the front only, I would suspect the non-return valve or the front equaliser valves in the valve block.
best of luck
Steve
I rebuilt a spare that I had and put it in but everything seem to operate back to front! I'll have to take another look to make sure I put everything back together as it should be.
I then rebuilt my original and put that back in. I have no exterior leaks that I can find but the front end of the car visually drops to the bump stops within an hour or so. Pretty even across the front. Can anybody tell me where to investigate or suggest something. Fed up off pulling valve blocks apart!
HI
I assume you have pulled the EAS delay relay and checked what happens without that.
If it is the front only, I would suspect the non-return valve or the front equaliser valves in the valve block.
best of luck
Steve
Gday have you tried soapy water on solenoids? Those pesky little o'rings on shafts are easily crimped on installation. Or non return valve!
Its a good idea to use an O ring lubricant as well during assembly.
back to front operation is usually a sign that solenoid caps have been swapped during reinstall. Refer to this diagram
http://hardrange.com/downloads/manua...Block-v1.5.pdf
Easy to mix it up... why I made the diagram for my own benefit
Cheers, Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
Was really careful 2nd time around to label and mark everything. The front has dropped over night with the eas delay switch isolated. Does that reveal any more?
Will have to whip it out again. Is there any way of bench testing for leaks with an air compressor supply? Are all valves power off closed?
Still can't work out how the valves actually open and close.
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