Which heater core

**rangerdanger** · 26th April 2014, 03:38 PM

After putting up with a bypassed heater for 3 years due to finding a rounder off clamp screw first time round, I finally bit the bullet and stuck with it to replace the heater core o rings. Thoroughly unpleasant job. Unfortunately, after pressure testing with water I still have a leak.

Those O rings will forever have me second guessing when the next leak is going to occur, so I have decided to go the Audi A6 heater core route and be done with it. There are so many posts on the subject my head is spinning.

My questions are,
1. How many forumites have done the conversion? Any long term issues?
2. There is a copper heater core (P/N 399910) and a plastic tanked aluminium heater core. Which has the best track record in Aus? Best brand / supplier? Anybody done a fully welded aluminium core?
3. There seem to be a few methods to access, either taking the entire dash out or removing the steering column. Which is best?
4. One post talked about unbolting the entire dash from the firewall and shifting back 100mm or so. I presume this only works for LHD vehicles?

Any guidance appreciated. I want to make this as painless and permanent fix as possible.

Thanks, Troy N.

**Hoges** · 26th April 2014, 04:50 PM

for dash removal... see Dash Removal | PaulP38A.com

If you are using the recommended red/orange coloured OAT coolant, it can react with copper and form a red-orange sludge which will clog up the radiator ...no doubt also the copper heater core. In which case get the plastic/aluminium heater core.

**rangerdanger** · 26th April 2014, 07:12 PM

I use the green coolant so no problems there, but I'm probably erring on the plastic / aluminium core, if only to avoid mixing metals in the cooling system. From what I have read there were cases of end joints failing on the plastic ones. There were also cases of soldered joints failing on the copper ones. Hence my dilemma.
Ebay seems to be the only place to buy them locally as far as I can tell, but there are comments to avoid buying the cheap and nasty ones on Ebay. Any manufacturers to avoid?

**Hammer H** · 26th April 2014, 10:35 PM

I also replaced mine with original, no removing dash as there is a shortcut cutting the frame, it is also advised to remove the steering wheel but was able to do it not removing the steering wheel.

**rangerdanger** · 28th April 2014, 08:01 PM

Still in two minds with the heater cores. There are a few cheap and nasty ones on Ebay which I'll steer clear of.

Presently aussie Ebay has plastic tanked version which is by the aftermarket supplier to Behr, Valeo.
Audi 5000 100 200 S4 A6 V8 Quattro 1987 1998 Heater Core 443819030 | eBay

Then you have the OEM Behr versions on Ebay US
Audi 100 200 5000 A6 Quattro S4 S6 78 98 Heater Core Behr 443 819 030 | eBay

Then there are the copper tanked aftermarket ones on Ebay US, which were the popular choice in the US.
Vistapro Proliance 399910 Heater Core | eBay

Any thoughts or opinions?

**Scouse** · 9th July 2014, 07:04 PM

Which way did you end up going?

I've just done O rings & was worried about some coolant residue near the plastic section of the joint. Fitted the O rings & cleaned up the area only to find coolant seeping through a crack.
I've fitted a 2nd hand heater core from a parts car (so far, so good) but I'm looking at going the Audi route too if the problem crops up again.

The local eBay seller seems decent enough but I always wonder about warranty with eBay sellers. This one has been member since 2004 though.

Rage Over · 9th July 2014, 11:39 PM

I'm also interested to know how you went. I just had the o-rings fail on both P38s in my family within a week of each other - go figure that one out!

I took the opportunity to install the BMW header tank in both when I looped them so I can set an alarm if I ever lose my coolant, so it wasn't for nothing. Now I need to decide whether to just change the o-rings or go to an alternate heater core.

At the worst time of the year to lose my heating, too...

**rangerdanger** · 10th July 2014, 05:53 PM

Hey guys, just to let you know I went down the track of ordering the full copper version, from Summit racing in the states. Also ordered some 'goodyear hi miler' heater hose which is supposed to be heavier duty to avoid having to replace it later. Also got some goodyear plastic 5/8 to 3/4 barb fittings. Total cost 175$ including freight from the US.

Quality seems OK. Made in Mexico so who knows.

It hasn't caused any problems yet, as it is still sitting in the box waiting to be installed. I have been procrastinating on performing open heart surgery on the dash I'm afraid.
Troy N

**FANTOM P38** · 10th July 2014, 06:31 PM

I took the opportunity to install the BMW header tank in both when I looped them so I can set an alarm if I ever lose my coolant, so it wasn't for nothing.

Hi Rage Over, can you be more specific as to which BMW expansion tank you installed as I have been considering doing the coolant alarm instal but dont want to risk leaks from drilling original expansion tank. Also does the said tank you installed need to be modified in any way to fit all relevant hoses & mounting points etc.

Rage Over · 10th July 2014, 07:44 PM

Sure, the BMW part number is 17111712641 and the genuine BMW tank (very good quality) can be bought for a good price from FCP Euro (they have some LR parts too but not many). The sensor is sold separately and there are two versions with different plugs. Either will work but I chose part number 61311378320 (two big round pins, rather than two small flat pins). It fits perfectly in the original bracket (exactly the same mounting).

I did not modify the tank at all however it doesn't have the little take-off at the bottom that runs from the throttle body heater (same function as a carb de-icer). After coming up with a perfectly good solution to keep it I realised that it really wasn't needed in this part of the world and decided to just remove it instead. The take-off in the intake manifold was capped. All other connections are present and in the correct positions.

Also, the main outlet of the header tank comes straight out perpendicular to the tank rather than at an angle, so the hose needs an awkward 90 degree bend in it. I found a suitable hose for now, but the hose does sit against the brake/ETC block (which I do not like). That's just a matter of using a more suitable hose.

Other than that, this gives a perfectly sealed system with no drilling into the tank or otherwise weakening reliability (other than the hose above, but that's easily solved).

If you are sure you need the throttle body warmer (snowy mountains residents?), the BA/BF Ford Falcon 6cyl heater hose has a perfectly sized reducing tee that you could safely connect the line from the plate heater to. There may be other cheaper ones but I've found it is fine with it disconnected.

If people are interested I can make a new thread and put some photos in it.

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