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Thread: Rear axle schematic!

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    Rear axle schematic!

    Hi guys,
    Just been looking /searching my copy of Rave for a drawing of rear axle with breakdown of Hub/Bearings/Seals etc to no avail, can anyone help with drawing from elsewhere? or suggest where I might look.

    Am in middle of pulling down as thought I had a leaking seal only to find dodgy wheel bearing and would like to make sure of what i'm getting into before going too far!

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    p38arover's Avatar
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    No drawings but have you seen this: Hub and Wheel Bearing Replacement (Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38) ?
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

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    Thanks Ron,
    Just after posting I actually came across that very post. Must say it is quite helpful, just need to check what tonnage my press is as they recommend
    15-20 Tonnes. In fact they were using a 20 ton and bent their press removing old bearings ****
    May end up putting new hub in and experiment with the old one.

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    Hi Fantom.
    Using the heat and cold theory, I found that putting a run of weld around the inside of the old outer race caused the outer race to shrink, it just fell out, with a very small amount of persuasion.

    You do have to be pretty good with the welder, I cheated and took the hub to work and got one of the professionals to do the job, looked a lot neater and I suspect did less damage than I would have done.

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    p38arover's Avatar
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    I'd have the same problem, Nomad. My welding is suspect!
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

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    Thanks for suggestions guys, just an update as I got into it today.
    All aspects of process were done very easily except trying to remove cone of outer bearing that was left on hub with wheel studs. I tried vigorously for over an hour with cold chisel & grinder to no avail, merely took out a couple of chunks with about two thirds still not willing to cooperate so off to engineering shop tomorrow to have that removed.

    The part I thought may have been most difficult was removing inner bearings & outer shell after reading other posts elsewhere. I only have a 12 tonne press, but this did the job easily only took matter of couple of minutes pleased about that, if only that last cone was a little easier. Unfortunately this cant be got at with press, it seems to have fusion welded itself into place. Will post up some pics when I get chance to download from phone. Just got to get new bearing set now & reassemble.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FANTOM P38 View Post
    Thanks for suggestions guys, just an update as I got into it today.
    All aspects of process were done very easily except trying to remove cone of outer bearing that was left on hub with wheel studs. I tried vigorously for over an hour with cold chisel & grinder to no avail, merely took out a couple of chunks with about two thirds still not willing to cooperate so off to engineering shop tomorrow to have that removed.

    The part I thought may have been most difficult was removing inner bearings & outer shell after reading other posts elsewhere. I only have a 12 tonne press, but this did the job easily only took matter of couple of minutes pleased about that, if only that last cone was a little easier. Unfortunately this cant be got at with press, it seems to have fusion welded itself into place. Will post up some pics when I get chance to download from phone. Just got to get new bearing set now & reassemble.
    Sounds like a job and a half. Hope it all goes well, keep us posted.

  8. #8
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    Update as promised!

    Took hub into engineering guy today. Can you believe it - he got it off while I watched in about 5 min with oxy torch ( One of very few tools I don"t have - Damn they are handy!)
    So all set to go now - picking up new bearing set tomorrow.
    FWIW OEM set quoted $230 + aftermarket $170 i have ordered OEM as I an running 33's and don"t want to take chance on having to do it all again too soon seeing as they don"t know what brand would be supplied as aftermarket.
    As far as I could tell there does not appear to be a heavy duty version available!
    So once I have new set just need to press all together & replace oil seal & check oil level & set to go for Wombat in few weeks.
    ps reason old cone would not budge was due to slight rust between mating surface of rear of hub against front of bearing shell. Must be due to water/mud etc. so i will apply smear of grease in that area prior to reassembly, hopefully that may assist if job needs doing again.

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    Don't forget to do the TSB to stop the clicking from the rear axles.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  10. #10
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    Please explain! not aware of this Ron. There's not much that can be done differently during reassembly, as far as I can tell.
    Great tip thanks Ron would have missed that one! Found thread re clicking issue, recommend using Loctite 648 on axle splines
    to prevent.

    Got me thinking should there be a sticky re TSB's for any repairs/maintenance on P38's so anyone can access easily or would this be too large an undertaking. could be broken down into Engine/ Chassis /Suspension etc. Just a thought!

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