Thread: Camp stove conversion from LPG tank

Part 1


While I was down at the metal scrap yard this morning dropping off a heap of steel for recycling , I happended to notice a few "old LPG tanks" next to the Big Skip. I couldn't help myself so this is what i brought home with me x 3





I have seen many different variations of this cooking stove/heater.
But I thought I'd do my own and I appologise in advance if my design is a copy,
I make no attempt to go commercial with this design.

so,to mark out the hatch I make a simple Template so that it would be easier
to mark out with a permanant marker by simply placing the templet over the
face of the gas tank and drawing around it.

I had some left over gal sheets from another project and squared off 1 side
of the gal sheet with a reasonably large set square to ensure the templete is
completely square before marking out the hatch template.





cut off the excess piece marked off with tin snips.





after checking all side with the set square to make sure
the sheet is square on all 4 sides.






I placed an engineering ruler on the face of the gas tank and took some
measurements and worked out that a hatch 180 mm x 140 mm was a
reasonable size but others may make their hatch smaller or slightly bigger ,
the inside of the heater/stove will have a circular steel mesh to place firewood
on top so I didn't want to cut a hatch any bigger as hot coals would probably
fall out of the front hatch if it was open .

marking out the template for the hatch



180 mm x 140 mm Template cut with tip snips



I placed the template over the face of the gas tank and work it with
both hands so it takes the same curvature of the tank so on marking
out it is easier to hold it in place with 1 hand and mark out around it.



placed the sheet of metal over the edge of the bench and placed my
left hand on one side while trying to give it a nice gradual curve with
the other hand by pushing down and continued this until it has a nice
even curve to it until I was satisfied it followed the same curvature on
the face of the gas bottle.


I then placed the template over the face of the bottle and
marked out around the edges of the template.



there it is , a nice straight clear mark and I have a template to
mark out another one if I have to make another one.



ok , cutting a round tank on the ground can be a tricky experience
and one shouldn't attempt to do so, needs to be strapped down,
I found the best way to strapp it down was to attach it to a very
heavy cast steel base from our own fireplace with a strap for my roof rack.


now before anyone picks up from the pic below that my fingers are in
the way and I should be 1,0000,000 times more careful,the
angle grinder Wasn't running.this pic was taken for a demo only.
I still have all my fingers

you may like to drill a small hole ( say about 4.5 mm ) in each
corner for easy cutting and removal of the hatch





one side is cut



the front hatch is completely cut out.



now it's time for the handle on the top to be cut for easier
marking out of a circle that needs to be cut on top of the
gas bottle for a stove and the steel plate for cooking.



top handle cut with a thin disc on the 4 " inch grinder.



Please Note !! These Bottles are all Empty meaning the
pressure inside is the same pressure as the outside .

Originally Posted by mike_ie

A couple of suggestions, if I may be so bold.

The first would be to untap the valve completely from the bottle and flushing it with water first. Gas can still remain in the bottle not under pressure, just waiting for an eager sparking grinder blade to slice its way in. Ask me and my singed-to-the-elbows arms three years ago how I know this.

And spot-weld the base of the bottle to something solid - workbench, manhole cover, whatever. It makes it MUCH easier to cut out without sending the bottle off in a random direction.

Nice job though! How well do these stoves work? I have a grinder and a couple of old LPG tanks out in the shed and there's nothing on telly....

Hi Mike;

they work quite nicely , with the Flu drawing air the intensity of the heat can be controlled with how far the hatch is "open" or "closed".