Thread: LT95 rebuild for beginners

Wagoo - hopefully these are what you are after:

From my ex-Stage1 Isuzu box:





From the ex-Stage1 V8 box:





And a hi range gear of unknown origin (was in a box of bits I got):



They all look OK to me (unknown origin one has a bit of wear on the teeth but to my inexperienced eye would still be OK).

I'll leave it to you to comment/explain further.

Steve

Thanks Steve.The dog teeth at the 9 and 10 o'clock position of the gear in photo #1 clearly shows the witness marks on the overun side of the tooth from occasionally driving on the short female tooth/spline. There is a matching witness mark evident on the female tooth/spline of the range change hub in photo #2 at about the 3 o'clock position.The sides of the teeth appear parallel, but if they show a positive outward taper they will tend to pop out of range.Even with parallel sided teeth they can pop out if intermediate gear assembly endfloat is not kept in check, because when accellerating from overun to drive the middle gear and the high gear push away from each other and can drag the teeth out of engagement.If that gearset were mine I would flip the range change gear 180 degrees so that it is running on the opposite side of the tooth/spline.This can be determined by looking at the helical teeth. The more polished side of the teeth would have been the former drive side, the less polished the overun side. flip the gear so that the less polished teeth become the drive side.
Wagoo.

Thanks Wagoo - great info.

That #1 gear wont be going back into anything as its actually worn the hardfacing off the bore on one side. Not particularly clear, but faintly visible on the far side of the bore in that photo. The hardfacing has also gone from the intermediate shaft, and embedded itself into the bronze thrust washers. Glad I'm not relying on refitting that set..

Would flipping a range change gear result in any extra/unusual noise with a "new" surface against an old worn in one?

Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

Thanks Wagoo - great info.

That #1 gear wont be going back into anything as its actually worn the hardfacing off the bore on one side. Not particularly clear, but faintly visible on the far side of the bore in that photo. The hardfacing has also gone from the intermediate shaft, and embedded itself into the bronze thrust washers. Glad I'm not relying on refitting that set..

Would flipping a range change gear result in any extra/unusual noise with a "new" surface against an old worn in one?

Steve

I must be getting old timers diease I had a couple of paragraphs in my head when I was typing that last post, but they didn't make it.
The first thing I was going to mention is that the dog teeth on an unworn gear are manufactured with a slight back taper so that they pull in to engagement, so a gear with parallell teeth is already half worn. doesn't mean they will automatically jump out of gear of course. But there is less margin for error re endfloat.
The second thing to mention is that flipping the range change gear may result in a little extra noise for a few thousand KM until the helical gear teeth get to know each other. you can speed up the process with lapping paste, but that involves removing the gears after for cleaning and then reassembling a second time.
Wagoo.
Edit. another thing to look out for is that the pins that hold the range change collars together are still tight. If they have worked loose on an otherwise servicable gear, I ''re rivet them'' on my hydraulic press by pressing a bearing ball against the end of the pins.

The manual is quite detailed in regard to the intermediate shaft, and the order that all the parts go back together so I wont regurgitate that here.
Its pretty much a case of assembling the stack of gears, bearings spacers and thrust washers, getting them into the case and then inserting the shaft.

Once its all in place you need to check the clearance between the rear thrust washer and the case. The gap is adjusted by substituting different thickness thrust washers.

Sorry - no photo of just the intermediate shaft.

Steve

The center diff and speedo drive housing can now be fitted, followed by the transfer selector shaft.
There is a detent spring and ball that needs to be fitted before the shaft is inserted fully, and another detent ball, spring and spacer rod that is fitted from the top after the shaft is in place.

The selector forks can now be fitted. One has a roll pin, and the other has a pinch bolt so you can adjust the clearance between the fork and the intermediate gear assy.



The cross shaft and selector finger can now be fitted.
There is a plastic/rubber spacer between the finger and the casing. I've heard that you can substitute some rubber hose - fitted with a bit of compression on the rubber and it helps dampen out the transfer gear lever vibrations.



Just for interest, this is what can happen to the finger after its been shaken to death by an Isuzu for 25 years. The one on the left was behind an Isuzu, the one on the right was from a V8 (both Stage1's):



Steve

Is there a reference point for setting up the transfer cross shaft so that the lever sticks out of a 110 seatbox the correct amount?

The RRC manual that I've been working from for the rebuild obviously doesn't show anything useful in that respect.

I've got this photo that I took prior to stripping the box, and it shows the lever roughly lined up with the screw head in the cross shaft retaining plate.



I'll probably just pull the cover off and adjust it when its in the car, but wondering if there's a better way while its on the bench.

Steve

Providing the lever is in the correct position when it was removed from the vehicle you can mark the lever and cross shaft before dismantling, to get the correct position for reassembly. From memory the position you mention sounds correct.