Thread: Discovery2 Safari Snorkel Install

Well I went to the Victorian 4WD show last weekend (what a great day) anyway I ended up coming home with a safari snorkel.

The plan was to do the install this weekend and I was lucky, the weather was fine. During the week i had to purchase a few extra tools & material that I needed.
70mm hole saw
stepped drill bit set
Cutting compound
3mm Self adhesive closed cell foam

I already had:
Permanent Marker
Masking Tape
Hole Punch
Hammer
Electric Drill
Dremel
Sikaflex 11FC
Caulking Gun
T25 torx bit
Phillips & Flat Head Drivers
Jack & Axle Stand
Carnuba Wax Polish
Rivet Gun
4mm Drill Bit
Acetone
10mm &13mm sockets and spanners

Make sure you check that all the components, and you have the correct template in your box.



So first up was to take the car for run with the Nanocom Evo set to record the Pre Install TD5 Data
I'll post the Pre and Post numbers at the end of this post.

Here's my D2 Before the install


After the run it was time to start the job.
The first thing today was remove the front left wheel and get the truck onto a axle stand. Pretty straight forward.

Remove the Inner Guard liner you will need the T25 torx a Phillips Head driver and I Flattened a Triple Grip to pry the Plastic clips out. There was one casualty. You also get to see how much dirt is built up in you guard.



Now remove the airbox
Disconnect the vacuum line, air temp sender (I think that's what it is) and MAF. Pull the box straight up It takes bit of effort.


Attach the template to the left front quarter panel with some masking tape, line the top of the template with the top edge of the guard and the right edge with right end of the guard.
I checked and tripled checked that I had placed the template in the correct position. You will also notice that a buckle will form in the template, I just made sure the buckle did not occur where I needed to mark the hole and stud locations.




Once your satisfied mark the locations to drill with a permanent marker.



Remove the template but leave in a handy location
Now where about to embark on the point of no return. Grab your hammer and punch set them next to your truck and wait for the butterflies (I took this opportunity to have a cigarette, read the instructions again, consult the internet and offer up that template again to quadruple check that the hole locations on in the correct spot )
Took me a good 10 min before a actually started to mark each drill location with the punch.


We're now ready to drill our pilot holes I used a 3mm bit for this with a dab of cutting fluid.












Once the pilots are drilled grab the stepped bit (the safari instruction sheet says to open the stud mounting holes to 16mm) after a bit of research, many people had said this was unnecessary. I decided to open the holes up to a 1/2 inch (12mm). Don't be to shy with the cutting fluid.




The butterflies have disappeared now, it's time the use the 70mm hole saw. I recommend a third hand for dripping the cutting fluid while you drill, so I asked my partner to give me a chop out, she was not impressed with the cutting fluid that sprayed onto her top as I drilled. (Be warned)



Now Mark between the two 70mm holes with a straight edge grab the dremel and cut to the lines.




While the power tools are out mark and drill the hole for the Cast metal inlet piece also drill the casting use a 4mm bit (I had to relocate my PAS/Ace reservoir)to get the drill in


Clean up all edges with a file and dremel, the stepped drill holes will need minimal work. You definitely want the large oval shaped hole to have no sharp edges as we'll be sticking our hands in there later. Also give all exposed metal a coat of paint (I just used what ever I had which was Rust Guard Metal Primmer)

Fix all the studs to the snorkel with loctite.


Now we can test fit the snorkel. Whoo hoo all good.


Now borrow your partners nail polish remover (acetone) and clean up all the areas that will need to be sikaflexed



This is also the last chance to get a coat of wax on your duco, because you wont be able to remove the snorkel easily once the sikaflex goes off.


I decided to use 3mm self-adhesive closed cell foam to seal the the airbox inlet to the snorkel on the engine bay side. (not sure how water tight it is yet) But I definitely don't want to sikaflex it yet.




Time to Sikaflex. Fix the cast inner guard bracket with a rivet (Tip from when I did glazing, use morning fresh to skim excess and smooth the finish) I skimmed all excess sika from the inside of the intake housing with my finger (use a latex glove)and watered morning fresh




Now get a good bead of Sikaflex onto the snorkel end. I pre-cleaned this with acetone as well. And bolt the snorkel to the guard but don't torque the nuts up yet.



Fit the upper section of the snorkel to the upper front window frame use the bolts supplied to fix the bracket to the snorkel and a 4mm drill bit to rivet the bracket to the frame.


Now we're almost done, time to prepare and reinstall the airbox. Sikaflex any potential water ingress locations, Duckbill, inlet pipe, porous inlet pipe piece.



Air box installation is just a reversal of the removal


Torque up all nuts and bolts, reinstall the inner guard cover, pack up your tools and admire your work.





I'm stoked at how the installation turned out.

Here's some data after the trucks been warmed up, accelerating up an incline with a heavy foot.
Pre Snorkel Install
Ambient temp 26deg


Post Snorkel Install
Ambient temp 29deg


It took me around 5 hrs to do the install. Now what else do I need.

Template and Instructions Can be found here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/local_link...catid=7&id=170
Please check scale and check against snorkel prior to drilling.

Just fitted my safari using this thread - have to say a big thank you.