P38 HSE: Powered by Ford

**banarcus** · 6th October 2015, 05:12 PM

Originally Posted by 350RRC

Hi,

Nice work there.

Did you think of getting a torque convertor custom built?

I had a similar issue when mating a Ritters Ford C9 auto to a 350 that previously had a LT95 behind it. Had to be longer, with Chev flex plate holes one end and C9 input splined sleeve at the rear.

Jason at Autoflite made it, perfect fit, any stall speed I wanted...........$480.

cheers, DL

Down the track this maybe an option. As it sits now, everything bolted up, my adapter was spot on so the ZF torque converter fits no problems at all.

I reckon if I went for another converter, it would be for a US spec Ford auto like a 4R70W. Wait and see how thus all goes I guess.

**banarcus** · 18th October 2015, 08:08 PM

Righto, I've had some success. After fixing a small wiring hiccup, I managed to fire up the new motor. With that out of the way, I started work on the trigger wheel and sensor setup. First up, I had to figure out how to get a good signal from the standard Land Rover Thor crank sensor relative to a conventional 60-2 trigger wheel. I mounted the wheel in my little drill and tried out different sensor positions to get the best voltage output.

Trigger wheel mounted on the harmonic balancer.

This is the sensor bracket and sensor mounted.

With this done, I figured that this position is the best for voltage output. This position gave the Bosch ECM a proper RPM signal which in turn woke up my EAS, ZF transmission, Tacho and air con. Happy days.

Here's a link to the video of the engine

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPZWvltHxOI"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPZWvltHxOI[/ame]

**Scouse** · 18th October 2015, 08:15 PM

Great work

, I bet that first start up was a relief.

**Disco Muppet** · 18th October 2015, 08:34 PM

Awesome!
Have been following from the start, this is seriously cool

Timely post, have just been trying to work out how to get similar functions working when I engine swap my Td5 D2.

**carlschmid2002** · 18th October 2015, 09:29 PM

Brilliant, awesome work.

**rar110** · 19th October 2015, 07:31 AM

Wow. Nice.

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 19th October 2015, 07:37 AM

Originally Posted by Disco Muppet

Awesome!
Have been following from the start, this is seriously cool

Timely post, have just been trying to work out how to get similar functions working when I engine swap my Td5 D2.

no more rattles?

**Disco Muppet** · 19th October 2015, 10:34 AM

Still an oiler, still a land rover

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

**banarcus** · 19th October 2015, 08:50 PM

If anyone was wondering why the video ended a bit abruptly, it was because the serpentine belt got shredded by a hidden bolt protruding from the timing cover. I'm using a 6PK2475 for the combination of Ford and Land Rover pulleys which cost me $40 a pop. That's a cheap price as they retail for much more.

I also tested the Bosch ECM on my android app via the OBD2 to test that the Ford throttle positioning sensor is giving the Bosch the correct voltage. This came back all good plus there were no "GEARBOX FAULT" messages on the dash.

Next on the list is the exhaust and then to the engineer for approval.

I wouldn't mind a nice neat mid spec Disco 2 next for a proper TDV6 conversion now but my poor missus is nearly ready to spit the dummy over this. Might start gathering some bits in advance..

**banarcus** · 27th October 2015, 06:42 PM

I had the car booked in for some exhaust work yesterday where I wanted my new cats fitted to the existing Y pipe at one end and the Ford exhaust manifolds at the other with new O2 sensor bungs welded in.

If anyone can tell me this is common practice, let me know about this. Where they welded the pipework and sensor bungs, old mate found leaks in his weld so he then pasted his weld work with hi temp silicone. In addition, the left side O2 sensor got smashed off by the front drive shaft. These were brand new sensors. This work cost me $350.

To say that I'm disappointed is an understatement. I've done almost everything on this conversion myself. The moment I let someone else work on it, this close to the finish line, and stuff the basic stuff up speaks volumes about the lack of pride people have in their work.

To be fair, the owner of the shop I took it to will work on it himself to fix it up.

Now I'm in the process of trying to run the motor in. I get the feeling that it's over fueling because the Thor spec fuel pressure is set at 50-55psi whereas the Ford system only needs 35psi. The engine surges on light throttle and cruising at speed and needs a bit of a rev to clear its throat at idle. I've purchased an adjustable regulator and gauge to set it correctly.

I've also booked it in to have an engineer have a look at my work so hopefully in time I'll have it rubber stamped!!

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