Thread: V8 county ute

Originally Posted by fitzy

I'm looking at finding a panel shop to weave some magic over the two halves to match up properly. All I need to do is find one competent, capable and compliant.

Good luck, but to be honest I don't like your chances.
There's a large amount of shrink or stretch that needs to be done to match those sections up. If you measure along each edge and compare them I'd guess you'd have 50mm++ difference between them??
Not saying its impossible, just that I think you'll struggle to find someone...

To me, the County roof is a good shape/height and a simple 2D bend. The series section is simply too low to match, and a compound curve to make it trickier.

Probably the most straightforward way would be to just use the series gutter and roll a new center panel to the correct height to match the county roof, then fab up some corners and join it all together...
Or just fab the whole rear section out of fibreglass.

I think the nicest one I've seen is Bitdist's, but he had an original defender single cab roof, and got hold of a damaged one to cut the filler section from: Defender

Steve

Steve I agree with everything you just said.
The series roof just wasn't going to stretch that much, I wanted it to stand up especially to fit the main hoop and lateral bars in .
I rang around and spoke to a Land Rover panel beater, he said drop in ,so with the roof already loaded on the work ute I went passed tonight on the way home, he thought I was probably asking too much and offered me this which he had stored away for the last few years.


The price was right so pop out the two dents and shift the back towards the front a bit and Bobs you're uncle

Awesome outcome I'd say!!

Steve

All is not as sweet as I first assumed.
Why did LR build a seperate roof for the single cab?

Because the wagon front is too long.
From the centre line of the bolt holes on the windscreen surround to the centre line of the bolt holes of the cab back is approximately 860mm
If I cut the back off the dual cab roof just as the rear radius starts and join it to the front section of the roof I'm 20mm too long
Note to anyone considering using a dual cab roof, make your extension min 120mm .
What this means is ill have to loose 20mm from the length which will also diminish the height and require stretching/shrinking and blending.

My cab extension is going to be about 200-250mm long, and I have a single cab roof here from my 120 that would be easy to extend 100mm.
I'm sure we could sort something out - so let me know if you're interested

Steve

On a more constructive note, 20mm lengthwise on the front taper isn't going to make a lot of height change. The straight center section of the rear will just roll down a bit, and you may need to shrink a bit out of the top of the corners.
I reckon it will be bugger all though..

Here's an article on tuck shrinking. You're not going to need anywhere near the amount of shrinking they've done, but might give you some ideas and a bit of an understanding of what needs to happen
https://garage.eastwood.com/tech-art...o-tuck-shrink/

Good chance you may be able to just create a couple of small tucks in the front edge of the rear section and get away without even having to planish them out if you lap the rear section under the front and use a bit of sealant/filler. If you're planning to rivet the sections together leave sufficient flat sections between any tucks so you've to flats to rivet through.
Here's an example of how its done to shrink the flange on light aircraft wing ribs while keeping the flats to rivet to the skin that goes over the top :



Remove the paint before you start playing with the area. Much easier to remove than when its been beaten/bent to death and you decide you want a clean surface for bonding/sealing.

Steve

Thanks Steve for the info and encouragement.
Back into it today and rdo Monday so should make some progress.
I've just done a mark up and will tread carefully before firing up the grinder.
Measure thrice cut once.