Thread: 120" extra cab

Originally Posted by rovercare

Oh, really don't worry about the hijack, I wan't pics!

OK here goes,


All fitted up....


After a 15K drive it developed a thump sound and jolted the rear left side on bumps and corners

As I said, it does have a fair weight on... Bags set at 90odd psi to give you an idea.

I pressed it strait and inverted the arm so cant get wedged under the chassis again. see what happens? Since my zaust isn't there I may have to bodge the arm?

If you look at yours, same... They lean at a nasty angle when static. (forward OK... Its the sideways bit) This pushes the arm in towards the chassis when under shock load.
I tried flipping the left drive member and/or also fitting the arm on the outer side to correct this. Neither was ideal. Maybe a distance piece so the bar cant float and a heavy shim on both top bushes could help?

It will work, just doesn't know it yet

Other thing is, any one looking for sports car handling, forget it, as there would be up to 2" body roll before the slack takes up in the free wheel hub.

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

OK here goes,


All fitted up....


After a 15K drive it developed a thump sound and jolted the rear left side on bumps and corners

As I said, it does have a fair weight on... Bags set at 90odd psi to give you an idea.

I pressed it strait and inverted the arm so cant get wedged under the chassis again. see what happens? Since my zaust isn't there I may have to bodge the arm?

If you look at yours, same... They lean at a nasty angle when static. (forward OK... Its the sideways bit) This pushes the arm in towards the chassis when under shock load.
I tried flipping the left drive member and/or also fitting the arm on the outer side to correct this. Neither was ideal. Maybe a distance piece so the bar cant float and a heavy shim on both top bushes could help?

It will work, just doesn't know it yet

Other thing is, any one looking for sports car handling, forget it, as there would be up to 2" body roll before the slack takes up in the free wheel hub.

Have you contacted Simon at x-eng??? I have found him good to deal with. Sounds like it is under-engineered for a 120/130...

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Have you contacted Simon at x-eng??? I have found him good to deal with. Sounds like it is under-engineered for a 120/130...

I have just sent an email with photos and a brief description of what happened. If I get no response I'll phone them.

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

I have just sent an email with photos and a brief description of what happened. If I get no response I'll phone them.

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Have you contacted Simon at x-eng??? I have found him good to deal with. Sounds like it is under-engineered for a 120/130...

Had a responce from Simon already Must say....I'm very happy with their product backup.

snip
We're impressed! When we ran the stress analysis on the system, it was one of the possible failure modes. We discounted it because it would require a standard land rover to be overloaded - and be cornering at an improbable speed. We just thought "it will never happen!".

Our prototype was fitted to a One Ton, 110 Doublecab filled with 1 ton of concrete slabs. We drove it for six months fully laden and tried our best to break it - but failed. X-Eng is based on a dairy farm in the south of England. Obviously we don't have anywhere near the space you have, but the tracks round the farm are a good testing ground for things like this being half way between on and off road.

Interesting truck by the way - we don't have much like it in the UK.

Anyway, what to do about it! In the short term, if you want it not to be an expensive paperweight, I would weld a gusset on the outside of the curved bar (facing away from the chassis) to stiffen it a bit. Like that it should be OK.

There are two possible solutions that we can implement. Since you do not appear to have the exhaust passing above the curved bar (which is why that bar is curved, to clear the exhaust) we could make you another straight bar with the correct hole patterns to be a drop-in replacement.

Alternatively, if you do need a curved bar, the strongest option is to make a laminate out of two pieces of 6mm plate joined together by the bolts which normally pass through the plate. A laminate sandwich is torsionally much stronger than a single plate the same combined thickness.

Obviously we'll make and ship this for free.

Has your friend suffered the same problem? If it's fitted to a more standard configuration truck, I'm confident that it will be OK (but happy to be proven wrong!).

Let me know what you prefer and we'll get on it straight away!

Kind regards,

That's is a very positive reply.

having air bags compared to coils would this make the sway bar work harder during corners.

Great response from the manufacturer. I did wonder why the left side arm had the big curve (exhaust clearance). Duplicating the RHS arm would be the way to go.