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Thread: Stirlsilver's Disco Ute Project

  1. #291
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    [QUOTE=stirlsilver;1877124]A further update for this weekend.

    I made the MkII of the jig to jog the free edges of the panels. And this time I added an extra feature to jog a curved profile.



    You would not be able to show a picture of your jig you made to jog the edges of the panel?

  2. #292
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    A thought about joining the rear qurters (alloy) to the rear wall (steel) - instead of fiberglassing. The autobody business have a very expensive "glue" for joining metal - used for panel replacements. You could 1) glue a metal strip to the inside of the alloy then weld the rear panel to this 2) make a strip bent to a 90degree to follow the profile anf glue that to both the alloy panel and back wall.

  3. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by crash View Post
    You would not be able to show a picture of your jig you made to jog the edges of the panel?
    Sure thing, This was the first one I used to make the straight edges:




    And this is the one I used to make the curved edges:


    Quote Originally Posted by crash View Post
    A thought about joining the rear qurters (alloy) to the rear wall (steel) - instead of fiberglassing. The autobody business have a very expensive "glue" for joining metal - used for panel replacements. You could 1) glue a metal strip to the inside of the alloy then weld the rear panel to this 2) make a strip bent to a 90degree to follow the profile anf glue that to both the alloy panel and back wall.
    Thanks for the suggestion crash. The only issue I have with this method is that I want to radius the corners, and that will be quite difficult to do since it would be curved on two axies. Besides, i'm more confident with the fibreglassing after having done the roof.

    Progress from the last couple of weekends.

    Plugged the holes by tack welding in the pieces I made:




    The first layer of fibreglass over the holes in the rear wall is on:




    And the fibreglass on the inside has been done:








    I'm off to Indonesia tomorrow so I've wrapped up the rear wall in an electric blanket since the nights are cold here in Melbourne and it looks like the next few days are going to be cool also. Here is hoping I don't come back to partially cured Epoxy when I'm back!!
    Stirling

  4. #294
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    A brief update:
    The fibreglass cured quite nicely, and i've now added a second layer, again wrapped it in an electric blanket and waiting for it to cure.





    In the mean time, I think I have settled on the turbo I will use. I think I will go with the turbo used on the 1999-2005 Subaru WRX, which is the TD04L-13T. the nearest compressor map for this particular turbo is below:



    Given that the Aussie dollar is plunging against the US, i'll be looking to order the reconditioned turbos ASAP from a US company I've found.
    Stirling

  5. #295
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    Progress update:

    Sanding back the second layer of fibreglass:


    Seam sealing... Everything! A second coat will be needed to cover a few spots I missed.




















    Rear wall bogged and sanded:




    And primer painted! I didn't spend as much time getting everything properly blended since you basically aren't going to be able to see much of the rear wall whe the tray is fitted:




    Stirling

  6. #296
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    Got creative with some cardboard and scissors this weekend.

    Another trial fitment of the right hand rear quarter panel. This time I cut out the shape of the window from MDF to make sure I can also insert it and remove it (and I can!):


    I took measurements at 3" spacings and marked them out to weld in steel ribs to help guide me when fibreglassing. After I took the measurements from the car I went back to solidworks to work out what geometry I would use:


    These are the curves I ended up settling on:


    Then it was just a matter of putting my pre-school skills to use cutting paper and cardboard. Here you can see how I was forming up the cardboard templates:




    Then with the help of an angle grinder and some files, the steel versions were made:


    When the tubs for the tray finish and I get the tray back to the workshop, I'll arrange for a preliminary engineering inspection of the car in its current state. Then I'll go ahead and start welding in these ribs after I am sure I no longer need access!
    Stirling

  7. #297
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    Check out what arrived in the post today. Two reconditioned TD04L-13T turbos




    And I got a call today to say that my tray tubs are finished. Sorry about the blurry shot, I rushed to take a photo with my phone.


    Stirling

  8. #298
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    Engineers have confirmed that they are coming to look at the car this Thursday! So today I was just doing some tidying up here and there to ensure all goes as smoothly as possible. Here is hoping nothing major comes up.

    As part of the preparations for the inspection, the tray was fitted back onto the car. Also you can get a better look at the tubs I had made.











    Stirling

  9. #299
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    Good luck. Hope it all goes well.
    Alan
    2005 Disco 2 HSE
    1983 Series III Stage 1 V8

  10. #300
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    Right, so Tom from Enkelman came to the workshop this afternoon to have a look at the car and overall it seems like everything is in order. He mentioned that the frame on my rear wall was a bit over the top with the reinforcement, but to be honest I would rather go over the top than be under. No issues with the tray frame either.

    One of the major problems that came up is that for the rear quarter windows, I was thinking of using perspex or polycarbonate. Apparently as a general rule nothing other than automotive rated glass is permitted. Which will be an issue for me because I need the flexibility of perspex or polycarbonate if I ever do want to change the window in the future due to it getting damaged. Furthermore, getting a custom curved piece of glass probably won't be the cheapest exercise either. Tom is going to check to see if there are any loop holes which will alow me to avoid having to go to glass.

    Another issue is, whether I proceed with getting the car engineered with 35" tyres, 50mm spring lift and a 50mm body lift. Anything above a 50mm tyre size increase or a 50mm spring/body lift calls for a lane change test to be done which is in the order of $1,500 to $2,500 per test. The advice is that in order to pass the car with my intended lift I would be looking at needing a very good set of shock absorbers and swaybars front and rear. I wouldn't have so much of a problem with fitting a disconnectable sway bar on the rear, but on the front... that could be tricky!

    The final issue is whether my engine will need to be emissions tested after the fitment of the turbos despite the engine only running on LPG. The test would be in the order of $1,500 per test. There is a possibility that this may be able to be avoided given that the class of vehicle is changing from a passenger car to a commercial vehicle.

    Aside from the 3 issues above, i've been given the green light to finish the body and the tray off and also do the modifications to raise the spring perches and the shock absorber mounts.
    Stirling

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