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Thread: Parts - S1 1952

  1. #1
    Drew Parker Guest

    Parts - S1 1952

    Just bought 1952 S1 for working restoration. Keen for advice on sourcing original and or replacement parts, esp brakes / ignition and electrics. Am also going to need a pair of front doors at some stage. Thanks Drew
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  2. #2
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    Drew

    You seem to have a reasonably unmolested 1953 there!

    Before you start. Get the original 80" parts manual and an original workshop manual. The parts manual in particular will make everything else easier.

    80" parts are getting a little difficult to acquire these days.

    Your brakes have 1/4" pipes which are difficult to acquire. If you have steel wheel cylinders I would send yours out to have sleeved in stainless. Be very careful with the master cylinder these are the most difficult to acquire. The shoes and springs are the same as fitted to 88'" Landies right through 1980.

    Vinwire (Vintage Wiring) in Melbourne make new replacement wiring harnesses not cheap but well worth the expense. Decide now if you want extra wiring such as blinkers added to the harness when they make it.

    SUMidel in Sydney have a restoration service or can supply brand new replacements for the SU fuel pump. The new versions have electronics over the points so are much more reliable than original ones.

    General parts can be had from a variety of suppliers around the country, Land Vehicle Spares, Silverdale NSW, All 4 X Four in Kotara NSW, Rover Parts Plus (internet) Bendigo Vic, some place in Blackburn Vic.

    Electrical light fittings - Classic and Vintage Bulbs in Adelaide SA.

    UK vendors. Dunsfold's DLR, John Craddock or LR Series are good places to start.

    You should also consider joining the LR Series One Club in the UK, their Mag is a good read for 80" and other S1 models and they have a club shop for many hard to find and reproduction parts. The magazine is worth the membership cost before you even consider the parts availability.

    Hope this helps.

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  3. #3
    Drew Parker Guest
    Thanks for all the details Diana

    Also happy to be corrected on age as I was informed that it is '52 - Engine# 47111002 / Chassis# 26161433 / Distributer - 10 51 .... (This is my first foray into S1 after many years living with S11A/S111 and Defenders).

    I have the various books but as I am currently overseas, I have yet to get physical with the new acquisition and so am simply guessing on needs at the moment.

    Looking forward to Aug when I get home and can get to grips with it.

    cheers
    Drew

  4. #4
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    Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Parker View Post
    Just bought 1952 S1 for working restoration. Keen for advice on sourcing original and or replacement parts, esp brakes / ignition and electrics. Am also going to need a pair of front doors at some stage. Thanks Drew
    Hi Drew

    I concur with Diana's advice but will add my own thoughts:

    The 1/4" brake system: most brake business still sell the 1/4" bundy tubing and nuts . The flare nuts are UNF thread but I have found the modern equivalent is somewhat loose , e.g., smaller diameter . I made my own flare nuts on my lathe to achieve a better closer tolerance fit .

    Instead of reconditioning your original brake wheel cylinders, it's much more practical to use later series 2/3 wheel cylinders with adapters . DUNSFOLDS in the UK sell the adapters . The original cylinders have a horrible silly bleed screw mechanism .

    I would buy the SU petrol pump kit from Gower and Lee in the UK . The pump is easy to pull down and rebuild . I had myriad problems with my original Solex carby . A lot of people in the UK install a after market WEBER .. it performs well apparently .

    You won't find any original straight doors or tailgate . if your handy with sheet metal, its a straightforward job making up your own new ones . It just takes time . With modern adhesives , you can glue the panels together and put fake dimples in to replicate the spot welds .

    Mike

  5. #5
    Drew Parker Guest
    Cheers Mike
    All good solid advice - appreciated.
    Would you know from the numbers if this is a 52 or 53? I see the parts manual uses numbers to give separation on some parts - but note that for most items they are common for the 80" models
    Drew

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Parker View Post
    Thanks for all the details Diana

    Also happy to be corrected on age as I was informed that it is '52 - Engine# 47111002 / Chassis# 26161433 / [FONT=Arial]Distributer - 10 51 ....
    No you're correct it is 1952 - I read the first number of the image as assumed (wrongly) it was a 1953.

    The engine however is incorrect, it is out of a 1954, but is essentially the same engine (apart from number).

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  7. #7
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    Drew

    I'm no expert on part numbers but from your details you have a 52 model fitted with a 1954 motor . It's the correct siamese bore type motor but isn't the original factory fitted motor

    BTW here's one of the weber carbies .

    New Land Rover Weber Carburettor Carb Series 3 / 2a | eBay

    Reports indicate they tend to run lean ona 2 and 1/4 motor but are JUST RIGHT for a 2 litre series 1 engine. The main negative with them is: the jets are not easy to access , they are difficult to clean out if they become blocked .

  8. #8
    Drew Parker Guest

    stripdown started

    FINALLY had a few weeks with this '52 project (chassis 261614455 eng 47111002). It appears to be complete and very original (bar the '54 engine). Seems that stoppage was based on starter removal and it was inoperable since. After refitting the rear oil line and hooking up a petrol feed, the engine started and runs happily at idle but needs carb cleanout.

    Had planned to carry out running repairs, but as the chassis and firewall only have light surface rust and all (but one wing bolt) nuts and bolts have happily unscrewed during stripdown..... I have been dragged into a complete rebuild. Two pics below of the old lady.....

    The brakelines still held fluid and pistons in both master and slave cylinders are free and functional, but suspect that it'd be sensible to switch over to SIII wheel cylinders.

    The petrol tank has some surface rust inside as expected, but still sealed.



    Missing and searching for:
    • Starter ring (have located and bought a replacement starter)
    • Oil filter
    • FLHS brake line (T to union)

    (all these obviously misplaced when starter taken out)
    • 1952 doors (lower and uppers)
    All else is present - 'though some will need some TLC and time. Have a period of enforced employment for the next 6 months overseas during which time I am gathering components / overhaul kits etc...

    Any advice on chassis protection? Have in mind to sand blast and repaint - but wonder if phosphoric acid undercoat would be a wise move at that point allowing, treatment of crossmember internals otherwise unreachable with paint??

    Sealant treatment of the fuel tank is on the cards. Advice on that welcome.

    Although it is sometime in the future, guidance from those in the know on re-registration and presentation for roadworthy sought as I'd hate to ply her with attention only to find that I can't use her on-road. I know the states vary in detail, but gather seatbelts and flashers are not required for that aged vehicle (as not equipped from new) and see Willy's around in FNQ with rear seats. Anyone that can guide me through the QLD paperwork / classic rego would be highly appreciated.

    Had a look at some other S1 around the area - many of which are in a sad state.... (both the 86" and 107 have Holdens fitted).
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  9. #9
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    numpty is offline TopicToaster Silver Subscriber
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    Looks like a great vehicle for resto.

    Redkote sealant for the fuel tank is the go. I have used it on a couple of mine with great results.

    Perry
    Numpty

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    Doors and Tailgate

    Hi Drew,

    I have a 53 80" and I have made new door skins and tailgate. I am happy to assist with dimensions or to fold some up for you if you wish.

    If you have some old ones or the jewellery that goes on them ie the hinges, handles and locks then all you have to do is fold up the skins and the bracing and glue them together as suggested by someone else (stronger than original). I have also welded the corners of the skins and that strengthens the whole structure.

    Anyway, happy to help.

    Nick Myres

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