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Thread: A well used 80''called Klonk

  1. #211
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
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    Kuranda
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    Thanks heaps Steve, much appreciated. will work well as i'm going to use it on my '57 88" not the 80"

  2. #212
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Gold Coast Queensland Australia
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    great to see the progress, especially the reminders of post three.
    I bet you didn't think you would be doing this for over five years!
    looking great!
    Safe Travels
    harry

  3. #213
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Albany WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry View Post
    I bet you didn't think you would be doing this for over five years!
    looking great!
    Ha Harry your right. I told the blokes at work ,that in a couple of years and I'll be able to take the kids for a ride in the back of it. Now they are saying that I'll be able to take the grandkids as well .

  4. #214
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Albany WA
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    Well the last couple of weeks Ive completed the soft top frame and now have the canvas on.
    I had a hoop to copy and worked out the side supports by trial and error to get a good fit between the windscreen frame and the door tops. At work I used a hand operated pipe bender to bend the hoops and a 100 ton press to squash the tube ends on the side tubes.
    Next is to repair the ventilator flap under the windscreen. It has broken studs that clamp the flap closed.

    Cheers Steve
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  5. #215
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Albany WA
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    Well have been held up abit waiting for some helicoils to repair a couple of stripped threads in the engine block. So have Sorted a couple of little jobs. The first was to repair the ventilator. The studs that hold the clamps were broken , so I made some threaded plates to replace the broken ones and screwed some new studs in.

    Next I got the indicators working properly, the flasher unit Id bought needed load resistors to make it work as I used LED lamps but I wasnt happy to do that because I had run a small 4 core wire through the windscreen frame up to the switch in the center and to the pilot light. So I found a flasher unit that works LEDs on modern cars and had to adapt the wiring circuit and harness to suit. This flasher unit needed two pilot lamps, left and right which I couldnt do, so after some thought I used a diode off each side circuit onto the pilot lamp feed and it worked well.

    Next job was to make a new grill badge as Im missing one. I wanted to put Klonks name some how on him. I thought about the usual number plates but didnt like that and vinyl lettering but didnt know where to put it, but had a eureka moment while thinking about the front grill badge. I have a mate who uses white metal ,so can pour a new one in a sand casting. So a mold was made and hopefully this weekend, poured.

    The helicoils finally turned up and the hole repairs done,but not that easy for one hole. Someone in the past had stuffed it up by trying to drill out the broken stud but had wandered off the bolt into the block and then taped the crooked hole leaving half the broken stud . This was repaired by making a cast iron plug, which was screwed into a theaded oversized hole, then the correct size hole redrilled and the helicoil fitted because I just broke through the side of the plug so strenghtening the repair.

    continued
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  6. #216
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Albany WA
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    The rest of the thread repairs.
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  7. #217
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Albany WA
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    The sand casting and mold, google was a big help with this. Will paint it the same colours as the land rover one.

    And the dummy engine oil filter I turned up. I stole that idea from the Uk series One club which make and sell them , But the exchange rate and cost of freight made it too expensive. Lucky work has a nice lathe. The filter is a fleetguard LF3614. I chose this one because it filters down to 20 microns, a normal engine filter only goes down to 40 microns. It needs to filter smaller particles as its job is a bypass filter and is not a fullflow one as per normal. The filter is on the small side but At $5.00 each ,its cheap to replace.

    Cheers Steve
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  8. #218
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Queensland
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    Nice work Steve.
    I was thinking of making a filter housing up too. I put a NOS one on the Tickford when I built it and its still there. I am not putting many miles up though.
    Did you make a end cover for the bottom?
    Keith

  9. #219
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Westlake ,brisbane
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    IMAG1010.jpgIMAG1012.jpg I bought mine from the S1 Club UK , it takes a Ford Focus spin on filter. It cost just under $200 delivered but I had sold a genuine Rover bypass filter with the Rover transfer on the side on Ebay for the same sort of money, I had bought it & 2 other AC filters at a swap meet for $40 about 10 years ago so I recon it didn't cost me anything. I had fitted one of the AC on Landy & the other on my P3 Rover.

  10. #220
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Albany WA
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    Thanks Keith,
    no I didn't think of doing a bottom cover , that would be abit flash for an old work horse.

    200mm length of aluminium 100mm dia cost $70 ,$10 for a couple of fittings and $5 for the filter plus about 3 hrs work. Drilling the oil holes was fun, centre one was fine in the lathe but the off centre one was done in the drillpress. Its jobs like this were you find out how true the drillpress is. The drill is a 6mm , 150 long and so is the filter housing. I started at the bottom to make sure the hole was inside the filter oring and it came out the top 4 mm away from the mark.

    1950 landy,
    thanks for the photos. I wasn't sure how close to the chassis it came, glad I didn't choose the bigger filter I was looking at.

    Cheers Steve

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