Have been playing with klonks steeringbox, someone has fitted a S2a box and made abit of a mess of the bracket so will have to build another one. I understand the 2a box is 1'' longer in the column than the original which puts the steering wheel close to the petrol tank lid. Was wondering if someone could measure their column length from the wheel clampbolt to the top of the support bracket, to give me an idea of how far out mine is.
The other is that the steering arm hits the throttle linkage but the steeringbox hasnt reached the end of its travel, (4 turns end to end) so shifting the box forward will help this problem. Maybe the steering stops will fix this when the front axel is fitted as well.
Also where should the steeringbox be braced to stop the firewall flexing that Ive heard mentioned.
Well Ive reached the last job on the chassis, the dumb irons are finished and spring mounts fitted, new outriggers made and fitted and chassis rails repaired under the outriggers, second hand tub crossmember repaired and fitted (thanks AlexH), steering box mods done, new bumpstop plates made and holes underneath repaired and finally the gearbox crossmember to be welded in.
However while I was setting up the gearbox crossmember for welding I gave thought as to whether I had got all the angles correct when I had made it as I took the sizes off the original but as it was rather bent I had a guess at the angles. So before I make this a permanent fitting I was wondering if some one could measure the gap from the bottom of the chassis rails to the top of the crossmember middle section under the gearbox. You may have to sit a small straight piece of something on the top of the crossmember to come out to the chassis rail to measure. Mine is 1'' below the chassis rail. This crossmember will affect the angle of the drive shaft so would like to get it to its original position. I have looked a one locally but it is an inch lower than mine and home made as well.
i made a new one up as mine was rusted out , but it was fairly straight and i put alot of effort into it to get right, i am not sure if i put the angles in my thread but you could see the photos and it might say. but i will have a look tonight or tomorrow morning if someone else hasnt
Tony
I had a look through your thread and found your diagram but I couldnt read the dimensions, even with zoom, but it looks differerent to mine even in the photos I found. That is one big thread.
i measured the bottom of the gearbox xmember to the bottom of the chassis which was 100mmand the gearbox xmember is about 60mm so that leaves 40mm, maybe you could take some rubber out of the mounts?
Well tonight I sat down with a large sheet of paper and drew up the three measurements for the crossmember, mine at 25mm Tonys at 40 and Charlies at 50. Found there was not a lot of change in gearbox height as thought, from 25-40mm dropped the g/box 6mm, from 25-50mm dropped the g/box 10 mm. I dont think this would make too much difference to the drive shaft angle, so for the work involved to remake the crossmember I think I might leave well enough alone. The major difference between the measurements is the clearance under the g/box, so will have to check that next time Im over at the shed.
Thanks for your efforts getting the measurements guys.
Last night I completed the last repair on klonks chassis, Im glad to see the back of that! Only the gearbox x member needs welding on but not sure about the correct position of that yet the old marks dont line up with the measurements on the plans, so might need to sit the engine and g/box in to get it right. So now abit of bog to fill in a few spots and will leave the painting untill Ive repaired the bulkhead and paint both together. Will get some photos at the weekend.
At the weekend I bought a can of satin black paint to paint the dash guage bezels. The speedo is a NOS one and the PO had polished the brass bezel when he sold it. The fuel guage is from an MG car and had a chrome ring. Amp meter is from a Massey ferg tractor at the wreckers and also had a chrome ring. The paint came up well when finished. The ignition switch I got is a reproduction one also with a chrome ring around the outside, so I decided to paint that as well. It was too hard to mask the inner black circle with the writing on it using the tape so I used grease on a paint brush to neatly mask it up, then sprayed. All was well untill I wiped the grease from the face, the black and the writing that was covered came off with the grease, nothing but shiney chrome Oh S--T not happy Jan! I have found a tranfer from a vintage car place in the UK to fix the problem unless anybody knows of someone here that has them.
Just a couple of photos of the progress so far. The bulkhead has the usual rust, but the drivers side had a few cracks caused by steering box flex in the past, and the top panel under the windscreen frame had a few rust holes but wasnt to bad.
Ive used rainex rust buster on the chassis etc, hence the white powdery finish. Two coats with a sand inbetween, as the outside wasnt in to bad a condition.
The new parts of the chassis look abit out of place, too flat and smooth compaired to the rest, never mind, not much of it will be seen.
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The fuel guage is from an MG car and had a chrome ring. Amp meter is from a Massey ferg tractor at the wreckers and also had a chrome ring. The paint came up well when finished. The ignition switch I got is a reproduction one also with a chrome ring around the outside, so I decided to paint that as well. It was too hard to mask the inner black circle with the writing on it using the tape so I used grease on a paint brush to neatly mask it up, then sprayed. All was well untill I wiped the grease from the face, the black and the writing that was covered came off with the grease, nothing but shiney chrome
Oh S--T not happy Jan! I have found a tranfer from a vintage car place in the UK to fix the problem unless anybody knows of someone here that has them.
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