Thread: A well used 80''called Klonk

Hi Crackers, Onsafari

I got the harness from Autosparks in the Uk. They gave good service. If you are going to add odd ball extras into the loom, send emails with the details. Make sure you identify your vehicle and loom properly, its a cost to send it back, this applys to Aus and Uk companys.

I put in a extra earth wire to the fuel guage so it gets a proper earth and works reliably, wish Id done the same with the tail lights,the harness only supplies power to the lights and you have to make an earth through the body as normal, but Im abit concernd about the paint between panels etc that wont let it earth when Im done. There are some other ''pommy'' ways of doing things with the indicators, but it goes with the vehicle.

Cheers Steve

Originally Posted by klonk

Hi Crackers, Onsafari

I got the harness from Autosparks in the Uk. They gave good service. If you are going to add odd ball extras into the loom, send emails with the details. Make sure you identify your vehicle and loom properly, its a cost to send it back, this applys to Aus and Uk companys.

I put in a extra earth wire to the fuel guage so it gets a proper earth and works reliably, wish Id done the same with the tail lights,the harness only supplies power to the lights and you have to make an earth through the body as normal, but Im abit concernd about the paint between panels etc that wont let it earth when Im done. There are some other ''pommy'' ways of doing things with the indicators, but it goes with the vehicle.

Cheers Steve

Not certain about the 80", but later Series vehicles earthed the rear lights to the chassis not the body - this means the only possible faults are at that point and the battery earth strap, as there are no bolted joints in between.

John

Thanks John,

That makes sence. I don't know where the rear lights earth. There were no earth wires supplied with the harness for them, and no instructions. I don't like the thought of the earth returning through the aluminium and steel causing electrolysis.

Thanks Steve

The later Series have the earth bolted to the top of the RH outboard part of the rear cross member.

Current flow through bimetal joints, provided they are tight, will not cause electrolysis. 'Electrolysis' (galvanic corrosion) will happen at bimetallic joints if they are wet, regardless of any current flowing through the joint. This can be minimised by contact being minimised by paint or other insulator, and by the use of galvanised fasteners, as with the original ones (avoid stainless).

The original ones were actually Sherardised, a form of galvanising that allows a more accurate profile to be maintained than dip galvanising. Instead of dipping the clean item in molten zinc, they are packed in a sealed container with zinc dust, and heated to just below the melting point of zinc for several hours. The zinc forms an alloy with the surface of the steel, the depth depending on the time they are cooked.

Unfortunately, Sherardised fasteners are virtually unobtainable today - it is hard enough to find galvanised fasteners, even if you are prepared to go non-original and not use BSF ones.

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

The later Series have the earth bolted to the top of the RH outboard part of the rear cross member.

Current flow through bimetal joints, provided they are tight, will not cause electrolysis. 'Electrolysis' (galvanic corrosion) will happen at bimetallic joints if they are wet, regardless of any current flowing through the joint. This can be minimised by contact being minimised by paint or other insulator, and by the use of galvanised fasteners, as with the original ones (avoid stainless).

The original ones were actually Sherardised, a form of galvanising that allows a more accurate profile to be maintained than dip galvanising. Instead of dipping the clean item in molten zinc, they are packed in a sealed container with zinc dust, and heated to just below the melting point of zinc for several hours. The zinc forms an alloy with the surface of the steel, the depth depending on the time they are cooked.

Unfortunately, Sherardised fasteners are virtually unobtainable today - it is hard enough to find galvanised fasteners, even if you are prepared to go non-original and not use BSF ones.

John

The sheradised fasteners are available from the UK from a few suppliers. Info is available from the LRSOC.

Also they have a few articles detailing how members have sheradised bolts themselves. This would be ideal if you had the original fasteners to reuse and can give them a birthday.

Originally Posted by andy_d110

The sheradised fasteners are available from the UK from a few suppliers. Info is available from the LRSOC.

Also they have a few articles detailing how members have sheradised bolts themselves. This would be ideal if you had the original fasteners to reuse and can give them a birthday.

Namrick Limited

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Namrick Limited

There's LR fasteners who do specific kits for Land Rovers.

http://www.landrover-parts.net

There's also Frank Mell who does S1 kits only through the LRSOC.

Hi all,

Havent been around much lately, cold and wet getting out to the shed so not much done out there either, but have been busy looking for engine parts.

So far Ive found a camshaft which has a little wear but useable, a carbi body that has a good emulsion tube holder, and 2x 205r16 dunlop roadgripper tyres for $50 each. They were spare tyres from hiluxes and havent been used.

I decided to clean up the carbi body in some rustbuster, it did a good job, gave it a scrub with a fine stainless steel wire brush and a rinse in water and wow! so had to do the rest of the carbi (see photo) but now I think Ill have to bury it in the garden for awhile. Way too much bling for an old land rover.

So crankshaft bearings, pistons and cam followers to go.

Cheers Steve