Thread: Help...2L engine backfire with flame and power loss

do you have to prime the pump ?
it seems to pump freely from container to container but wont lift from tank..99% shure the 2 lines{tank to sediment filter and sed f to pump}are hole free ..only thing I can think oif is that theres a leak at a join or a pin hole in the fuel tank lift or........pump rubber that wont alow it to lift that high..
any thoughts?

Originally Posted by mfc

do you have to prime the pump ?
it seems to pump freely from container to container but wont lift from tank..99% shure the 2 lines{tank to sediment filter and sed f to pump}are hole free ..only thing I can think oif is that theres a leak at a join or a pin hole in the fuel tank lift or........pump rubber that wont alow it to lift that high..
any thoughts?

The pump is self priming .

One thing you can try is, holding a finger over the pump outlet and see how the pump reacts , it should stop . And put your finger over the inlet, you should feel a sucking on your finger .

The SU pumps can be buggers of things . Morris Minors used them too .

You may have to fit a new diaphram, the diaphram can become hard and lose its flexibility . The best place to buy a kit is from GOWER and LEE in the UK .

it dose with 2 containers {stop} but not when pumping air
ill re check for leaks between tank and pump or run a hose to a container on the ground just to see if it lifts it...pumping with a can in the engine bay it pours fuel through..

im down youre way on Thursday , if youre around I can bring that hood down for you to mesure

fuel lines back together filters clean...flow rate around a litre in 60 seconds .
when parked overnight it will click 6 times ... if its sat for 5 odd hrs it clicks once perhaps twice ,stop and start no click...far as I know{not a lot} that sounds like it should, what ya recon?
runs and revs as it used to standing in driveway ,but cant test it under load until I have the tow wife at hand.
ill let you know how it goes.
ps no inlet or exhaust manifold leaks ,possibly the bad backfires on the first run were a combination of to advanced ignition loose manifold bolts and buggered gasket.. post ignition ?

Sounds like you might have it beaten.
Looking forward to receiving a positive report from the road test.

"I would only pull the tank out if the bottom was weeping, but if you need RedKote I found some on eHay, bit on the expensive side though, I am going to try a suggestion that plumbers PCV glue works as well, but I am yet to experiment with this."

I used fibreglass gel coat, from a boat place 30 yrs ago, 2 part, very thin, runs like water.

It is still there, still no leaks.

Terry

Originally Posted by Xtreme

Sounds like you might have it beaten.
Looking forward to receiving a positive report from the road test.

might need dutch courage to just run up the driveway lol
I may take it for a run tonight if the tow womans up 4 it...basically it only needs to run well for a couple of blocks to get club rego then I can relax and sort it at lesure
thanks to all who imputed ideas thoughts etc

Originally Posted by chazza

I have started experimenting with it since Back In suggested it. It worked faultlessly on an old rusty tin with petrol in it for about a week and then diesel. I am half way through doing my S3 tank, which needs another go because I missed bits inside,

Cheers Charlie

Hi Charlie. I understood that the PVC glue is not actually a glue as such but a solvent that partially dissolves the PVC. I cant see how the solvent on its own would seal rust. I seem to remember some PVC was added to make the sealer but I am getting a bit fuzzy on this older stuff
Keith