Thread: Galvanising

The other thought I had was distortion from the Galvanising process. The fella I spoke to mentioned the welds need to be sound otherwise the heat of a 450 degree bath will separate joined metal(I don't see this as an issue) Though door frames would need to emerge free from twist or buckling.

These are the parts that were recommended for electro-plating as they have moving components. What have other people done with these during a rebuild?

In The past I have pull these bits apart and just sent them with the rest.
I would have through $150 to 200 for full car worth.
Dennis

Thanks Dennis
I was going to chase up a lead from a galvanising mob at Padstow today after sandblasting. It took longer than expected so it looks like tomorrow. The disassembly of these pieces does not look lke the easiest of tasks, not without heating and some hammer work. One of the threads I was reading was talking about a galvanising stick which sounds similar to tinning solder. I wonder if this is worth trying as an option.

Todays results, certainly removed all the crud and remnant paint trapped right in the corners where the wire wheels could not reach.

Originally Posted by brendanm

Thanks Dennis
I was going to chase up a lead from a galvanising mob at Padstow today after sandblasting. It took longer than expected so it looks like tomorrow. The disassembly of these pieces does not look lke the easiest of tasks, not without heating and some hammer work. One of the threads I was reading was talking about a galvanising stick which sounds similar to tinning solder. I wonder if this is worth trying as an option.

Todays results, certainly removed all the crud and remnant paint trapped right in the corners where the wire wheels could not reach.

As Dennis said I usually pulled the bits apart, then reassembled after. For most parts you simply grind the end off the pin, then install a new pin after galvanising. Some parts I galvanised with the pi then managed to free up after, but it can be hit and miss...

when you put them back on are you using pop rivets or original kind?

Originally Posted by Landy Smurf

when you put them back on are you using pop rivets or original kind?

If that was directed at me(?) then in most cases I used soft stock like class 4 bolts or welding rods and peened them to look like the original.

Dropped the components over to Pastow this morning. Big price difference. $120 as a minimum weight + 75 cents per kilo for the acid wash. Should be closer to, or under the $150 price range that others have indicated. He could not give any guarantee on distortion. He looked at a couple of components like the door hinge where there is an excess of orginal Gal and said the components look like they were dipped originally though it is only a guess as the process would have changed a lot in the 60 years since. Couple of days until pickup.

If the question was refitting. The intention was to use the blind rivets and solid aluminium domed head rivets as original. I have some rivets and a punch on the way. I have seen a screw thread clamp type tool used to upset the rivets. If anyone owns one or knows of one available for loan I would be happy to hear from them.