One more with the badge. Sprayed black and lightly sanded to highlight the writing.
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						Trial fit of some components
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						One more with the badge. Sprayed black and lightly sanded to highlight the writing.
As you said the parts were originally hot dip galvanised. AFAIK they were all dipped rather than centrifuged.
Many landie restorers make the mistake of trying to restore to better than original condition. The lumps and bumps in the original gal would have corroded away before you got the car.
I have been told that (some?) series 1s were delivered with runs in the original paint!!! (don't know how true that is)
Wow that looks great!
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						Had a go today with some cold gal over some of the smaller and articulating parts to get a better match with the newly re galvanised components.-Looked like undercoat.
Picked up some aluminium based paint. Looks garish though is a lot closer match and allows movement of hinges and swivel catches.
With any luck it will fade at the same rate as the zinc coatings.
Pick the hot gal dipped from the gal paint from the Aluminium paint.
Next time you are using the aluminum paint mix a bit of enamel hardner in it , it is a lot more durable . I use it on the out side of my brake resvour & the brake fluid doesn't take the paint off
Looks like they did a good job, but does seem abit shiney for an old landy. I have vague recollections that the galvanising man told me to wipe it with lemon juice to speed up the aging process. I havent tried it so if you do, do it in an unseen area first. I guess you need to wash it off when you are happy with the colour.
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						Thanks 1950landy & Klonk. Both great ideas that I am sure to try.
One of the next items was to have the rims sand blasted and powder coated. Reading posts is steering me away from powder coating and I was going to etch prime and coat with a hardener in the enamel. As I was thinking the fitting of tyres would be harsh on paintwork. I did not think about the little fittings.
I will you know how the Lemon juice works out. There is plenty of surface area on the back of the tailgate hinges. Makes sense as before the parts were dipped in zinc they were acid washed. Not sure if the acid was to bring components back to bare metal or just further clean up. The acidity of the lemon juice is probably better for your hands than Hydrochloric.
The Galvanisers put the parts into acid to strip the old galv off , the acid also acts as a flux to galvanise . when you take parts to them for regalvanising they charge double the cost of galv to strip plus the cost by weight to regalv.
I painted the bonnet latches on my 80 with alum paint with hardner the brass hooks i took back to brass & polished . The hinges on the seat box lids have a alum hinge pin so don't wegalv or the pin will melt in the dip & you will loose 1/2 of the hinge . The other reason for putong extra holes is to stop air pockets when galvanising, if you get a air pocket it won't galv where the air pocket & if you get a air pocket in a enclosed area & the wil expand & blow the piece . A piece of RHS 500mm x 25mm Sq if sealed will blow upto a ton of zinc out of the pot when it blows.I delt with Galvanisers for about 30 years & know a bit about galvanising & ysually if they say they need extra holes . I've seen heavy angles welded to plates with tested welds that have not had vent holes drilled just peal off the plate.
Some times they want the holes so they can drain the zinc in a certain way , they usually hang from one corner so the zinc will run to the opposate corner & they only have the one drip to clean off . I regalvanised all the galv items on my 80 except the the bonnet latches & seat box hinges . Small items they can centrifuge but the finish will be different to the items that have been just diped & you take the risk of loosing some of them because they are not wired together & go in the centrifuge with a lot of other costomers items which they hand sort at the completion of the process. When I used to get landrover parts galv i would wire them myself & ask them to leave them on the wire & not dress them , then I cut them off the wire & dressed them my self that way i didn't loose any bits but towire them your self you need to know how to wire them so they don't touch together & hang the rite way to get a good finish. Hope this is of some help.

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