Thread: Bundalenes '51 Restoration

The Disco has bearings top and bottom too.
Shims are used for preload but only to 1.16 to 1.46 kg.
So as John says, your figure may be too high and do more harm than good.
Keith

Just looked at the Book.
With the early bearing set up, A dial gauge is used to get zero end play then a .005" shim is removed to give the required preload.
With the spring and cone the preload is only 3 to 3.5 kg.
K

Thanks Keith and John for that advice. I have not done enough reading on the topic, blindly following my 1948 to 58 Series1 Manual. I have the earlier manual on RAVE, which I should have read as well. I still like the old fashion method of having the workshop manual with me on the job.

I see very early swivels actually use a dial indicator and not the spring method and as you rightly say preload for say a '51 model should be between 3 and 3.5kgs for the cone and spring arrangement.

I knew in my mind I was going to far and backed off,. I didn't like stressing these tapered races as I realise it is not good practice. My main concerns were of the possibility wheel shimmy caused by other influences such as a slightly unbalanced tyre or tie rod end.

I will back them off this morning, to the Disco levels, quite easy when it is on the bench.

I just had another look at my manual which covers Series 1's from 1948 to 1958. The section on this where they refer to setting the pre-load does not specify which vehicle it is intended for, but further on in the section under specifications, it lists variants for different year models and set-ups but none go as low as 3.5kgs.

I will keep my eye out for a more specific manual "paper" manual and use the more specific RAVE manual as a reference.




Erich

You could build up that missing piece with braze. Many components were prototyped in brass when land rover was developing the 80" You could hand file the external face smooth, you will need to machine the face true and re tap the thread. If you wanted to you could save that relay box, it comes down to how readily available these are.

Originally Posted by Bundalene

......... My main concerns were of the possibility wheel shimmy caused by other influences such as a slightly unbalanced tyre or tie rod end.
.........

Erich

I think you are likely to have this problem. There is a very good reason why Rover changed from tapered rollers at the top, and you have just given it.

However, you may get away with it - in 1948 it was unheard of to balance wheels except on high performance cars, and then only rarely. Today it is normal.

John

I've enjoyed going back through this thread, you've been making good progress well done

Originally Posted by 123rover50

The Disco has bearings top and bottom too.
Shims are used for preload but only to 1.16 to 1.46 kg.
So as John says, your figure may be too high and do more harm than good.
Keith

Just looked at the Book.
With the early bearing set up, A dial gauge is used to get zero end play then a .005" shim is removed to give the required preload.
With the spring and cone the preload is only 3 to 3.5 kg.
K

Thanks, I was able to set these to one at 1.2 - 1.4 and the other at 1.4 -1.5 and they now feel smooth as silk, not notchy. Seals have been greased and installed. I am using my digital fishing scales, they seem to be quire accurate.

I am glad I went through this process as I have gained a lot of knowledge. I have just come across 2 sets of completely assembled swivels (whole front ends) which will be used for future projects.




Erich

I haven't been here for a while, we spend a lot of time travelling and many projects on the go, anyhow I have a few weeks with some spare time.

Brakes.

The vehicle I am restoring was missing all hubs and backing plates / brakes, so here is another learning curve. I am assembling these brakes from a stack of bits in my shed. I am unsure about a few things.

As I see it, there are 2 types of 10inch brakes, early ones without the screw adjusters and later ones. In the early type all 4 backing plates were the same, later ones had a left and right with fronts having 1 1/4" pistons and rears having 1" pistons


Left is the early one, right is a later 10 inch left plate







Here is where I am to date and have a few questions:


I have a heap of spare 10inch drum brake shoes and many trailing shoes don't have the holes for the anchor plate and those which do have the holes, most are not tapped.

The first thing in the repair manual says, "Remove the anchor plate securing the trailing brake shoe" So I assume these should have anchor plates





Pic of anchor plate






Makes me wonder if these are a general fitment. I cannot see these in the parts book, for any of the 10inch drums.




I am just assembling these to learn about them and will clean them up later, with new shoes.


Any advice is welcome.

Erich

Originally Posted by Bundalene

Brakes.
-------
The vehicle I am restoring was missing all hubs and backing plates / brakes, so here is another learning curve. I am assembling these brakes from a stack of bits in my shed. ------

I seem to recall a 'Watchout', check the thread type in the shoes as somewhere along the way those threads went from BSF to UNF and the shoes are interchangeable.