Reply With QuoteCan anyone give me some advice or point me in the direction of more information on Tracta joints (front CV's), my next job. They look simple enough and I think I have 2 good sets.
ChatterBox
As for front springs, I have just finished these using the 9 leaf skinny leaves. I set them to 125mm drivers side and 115 passengers side. Resetting springs using an anvil and a hammer is no exact science. Spend an hour belting them, assemble and measure. If not enough, have another go. The above measurements is how they turned out - near enough.
I also added a short leaf section on the top to reduce wear from the U bolus / axle housing base.
From the Series1 Workshop Manual, both drivers and passengers side of the 80inch are the same, but there are variations between the different 80 inch models. It is only on the 86inch on wards where they distinguish between the drivers side and the passengers side springs
Our springs should actually be set to 4 inches (102mm). Note the typo for the 52 / 53 model 80inch at 4.39inches or 102.5mm???
Resetting spring leaves before and after, - chalk line before
Repairing loose clamp, I finished up making a new clamp but used heat to assist the process.
Springs are ready to install.
Erich
ChatterBox
Can anyone give me some advice or point me in the direction of more information on Tracta joints (front CV's), my next job. They look simple enough and I think I have 2 good sets.
ForumSage
Just pay particular notice to the splines for any signs of twist or fretting.
The Tracta Joints themselves don't give much trouble.
RoverLord
As Arthur says - the joints themselves give little trouble, provided they run in oil and the stub axle is properly aligned.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
ChatterBox
Thanks Arthur and John, I did read somewhere about using a dial indicator to set up the alignment.
We have a box with a number of tracta joints, with several actually broken in 2 pieces and some others with a bad wear and huge burr, no doubt from lack of lubrication. Probably the same reason why the bronze bush wears out.
Erich
ChatterBox
I haven't really shown these pics. This is the Series1 we are restoring, all matching numbers chassis, engine, firewall plate and both diff housings.
The engine will be a challenge.
Made some good progress today, completing the front axle assembly, It went like clockwork, only have to add the brake plate when I complete these. I had issues with the left hub oil seal, these sit very shallow into the hub and I am worried it may pop out,
Put on some old wheels and tyres to be able to move it under the chassis
I used a good quality gasket sealant instead of actual gaskets.
Also very tempted to do away with these locking tabs and use loktite or thread locker. any thoughts?
Erich
Master
Wowsers mate, that's a special build. Keep us salivating please
ForumSage
I would use Loctite on the Defender and locking tabs on the series one. Only because that's the way their builders did it.
.
Master
Something satisfying about using locking tabs.
Locktite just equals sticky fingers.
Master
Why not use both? Loctite for efficiency and locking tabs for looks
Gary
98 Discovery 3.9 V8 "Fatso" Now Gone!
08 Discovery 3 TDV6 Gone too!
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