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Thread: Tiny bit excited

  1. #31
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    I would remove the tie rod to isolate the issue before expending much energy on fixing it. The relay is by far the most likely issue. If completely dry, it is likely to be very hard to move, as the fibre bushes will be rusted to the shaft.

    If original, there should be a filler plug on top of the shaft. Remove this and fill with oil, topping up periodically as the level falls. At this stage, the type of oil is pretty irrelevant, although penetrating oil will probably work quicker - but also probably run out the bottom quicker! About a week of this should free it up.

    There is a slight possibility it is the steering box, and making sure it has oil in it is worthwhile.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
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  2. #32
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    update

    thx john, the top steering box is now full of oil was empty, just need to find something small to pour oil into the relay seems empty as well.

    pic1 removing these seat back brackets were a small nightmare, very hard to get to the bolt behind. anyway all out today

    pic2 2nd fuel tank bracket, don't think this is genuine looks home done, fuel tank out with angle grinder seems quickest approach

    pic3 close up of said bracket someone confirm please this is not original

    pic4 removed with angle grinder, will stick to the original one fuel tank, will need more grinding to come later

    pic5 2nd fuel tank removed, some previous owner had turned it into a storage area with the cut out on one side closest to the p/s door

    pic6 paint used for the body in case anyone curious, dulux brunswick green
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    Land Rover

  3. #33
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    update

    found something to pour some oil into the steering relay, first squirted some WD40 thinking it will mix with the oil anyway, then used a syringe with a caulking tube plastic head and see thru plastic tubing, and then slowly squirted some oil in. after 30mins or so did free up somewhat but still pretty hard to steer. think it just needs time now and another top up later
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  4. #34
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    You very likely need to replace the bottom seal in the relay - can be done in situ. In fact the relay can be overhauled without removing it (just as well since they are often almost impossible to remove!). Caution! Read the manual before disassembling the relay, it contains a powerful spring, and can cause serious injury.

    While some oil will make it easier to move, it will take several weeks before the fibre bushes are thoroughly soaked, and it will need a fair bit of exercise to rub all the rust off the shaft.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #35
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    update

    chassis clean up and small paint, finding the spray cans can be expensive but a whole lot easier to get paint on the chassis. could spray out of a spray gun but then you have the clean up afterwards. anyway small progress is still progress i guess.

    can see someone has repaired the bottom half of the main chassis as there is a weld across the bottom 2/3rds of the main face just noticeable in the pic.
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  6. #36
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    update

    pic1 d/s 3 bolts needed removing to undo tub, so out with the grinder

    pic2 d/s this is what holds the tray in place afterwards with the grinder, thankfully minimum damage to alum

    pic3 p/s done this time, just wanting to prepare for tub removal

    pic4 while at it removed the door sills both side again part with grinder some with spanners

    pic5 separation between tub and frame, finally
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  7. #37
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    update

    pic1 top view top bar

    pic2 top view tow bar

    pic3 unpainted chassis top rail, needs clean and quick paint

    pic4 painted chassis top rail

    pic5 towbar not original so needs to go, seems like a nice set up, prob from a ute nicely fitted, but gone.

    pic6 unoriginal tow bar gone

    pic7 underside of tub untouched, needs a lot of work
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  8. #38
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    sml update

    managed to remove the front bump stop rubbers that's it, slow day. chassis looks to need a lot of work. bracing myself for the amount of welding, cutting, grinding etc involved. more to come later. also added some more oil to steering relay, slowly becoming softer to rotate but long way to go yet though its not seized up as before.
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  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by shamirj View Post
    managed to remove the front bump stop rubbers that's it, slow day. chassis looks to need a lot of work. bracing myself for the amount of welding, cutting, grinding etc involved. more to come later. also added some more oil to steering relay, slowly becoming softer to rotate but long way to go yet though its not seized up as before.

    Good progress.
    Make friends with a sheetmetal shop, also some members may have bits of old chassis lying around,but it's not hard to make repair sections from some 2mm sheet steel.
    I trust you are only freeing up the steering relay so you can get it apart. It can be rebuilt in chassis if it won't come out easily.

    Cheers Steve

  10. #40
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    thx Steve

    thx steve, freeing up the relay so i can turn the wheels once i get it going. its for steering the LR not necessarily to pull it apart at this point. point taken re sheet metal. i didn't want to pull the engine/box out but may have to, to gain access underneath the chassis for repair work. i cant weld upside down. cheers
    Land Rover

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