Quick paint on one door d/side
paint finish is good but prep underneath the paint not so good, still looking for that rough finish so will have another look in the morning to re paint or not. still its progress i guess.
Land Rover
just went to bunnings and got a deep bronze green (green base) colour in enamel 1L $50. did take a sample in first time but the colour was all wrong more brown then green, made a 2nd mix same brown colour, 3rd attempt with green base yielded this colour which is quite a good match.
pic1 couldn't wait to get the door on the vehicle looking good. painted late last night and in the morning colour had a white glaze over it so repainted this morning and fitted this arvo. wrapped not perfect but looks good to me.
pic2 hard top still on, needed it gone. also prefer the look of the soft tops, so time to unbolt.
pic3 in its current state, bonnet and one door complete long way to go. hardtop stored for now. much easier to work on except on hot days no shelter overhead. also removed tailgate which needs more work to complete.
need to tidy up some overspray around door frame, get some new washers for the door hinges and fit door handle.
Land Rover
before and after pics thus far
Land Rover
pic1 - is this a standard battery base with drain channels in case the battery leaks? removed the outer top battery cage, cleaned the base and applied filler primer ready for paint
pic2 front d/side, no VIN chassis number to be found, this vehicle seems to be missing a chassis number, can some one help locate? also not above spring shackles in rear either side?
pic3 this flat sheet steel or alum came off the top of the windscreen frame, guessing its not original please confirm?
pic 4 as in pic3 above with frame attached to top of windscreen, this was a hardtop but thinking to change to soft top though there is nothing to pull the soft top onto on the top of the windscreen frame, whats missing ?
Land Rover
Chassis number on Australian assembled Series Landrovers is on the LH rear chassis, just above the shackle on the rear spring. It could be fully imported, in which case it could be on the place you indicate if from the uK, but other assemblers seem to have put the number in other places!
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
pic 1,2 & 3 - stages of wheel prep, cleaned with wire brush, paint stripper applied twice, then hosed down, filler primer painted now drying
pic 4 - windscreen in clean up phase, lots of paint stripper and wire brush plus some light sanding, still not finished
Land Rover
pic1 - petrol tank dropped, i have a spare if this one is no good, will inspect later.
pic2 - at some point had two fuel tanks, one on p/side has been turned from fuel tank to storage tank
pic3 - outriggers seem ok only surface clean required
pic4 - degreaser and wash down, some stubborn grease/oils prob need scrapping off as they have not moved, bugger. seat box removed put aside. you can see the remaining fuel/storage tank.
got the angle grinder out and ripped off the remaining bolts that holds the rear tray onto the rear crossmember. still no luck finding the chassis number anywhere which is a worry. the holden 186 turns by hand so the motor (fingers crossed) should be ok. have not tried to start her yet have no spare battery.
Land Rover
I've got a 54 86" Annand & Thomson on which the chassis no. is stamped on top of the chassis rail, passenger side, in the area between the radiator and the mudguard. Very hard to see..W
hi all,
Sorry no pics today. however i have noticed the steering wheel is very tight almost seized up. when i tug and pull it only moves 2-4inches at a time. don't think it could be the tie rod ends thinking the relay box on the front crossmember? thinking to jack up the front wheels to take weight off front axle, then remove tie rod to relay box then try to turn the wheel to isolate the problem point. either that or lots of WD40 around the relay box? suggestions welcomed.
Land Rover
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