Thread: Tiny bit excited

I was just thinking about your clutch problem , while you have the box out you should unbolt the clutch & check that while the vehicle has not been running bit has not got wet which would cause the clutch plate to stick to the pressure plate or flywheel, causing the clutch to not dis engage. while it is out you can rub chalk on the linings that will keep them dry & will wear off once the motor is started & clutch used a couple of times .

1. decided it was time to fit the steering wheel back on and bolted into position with its pinch bolt/nut

2. something was missing in the centre of the steering wheel which has the dipswitch and horn (missing on mine) so was looking around for a suitable something to fill the void, found this tub of putty

3. fitted like a glove, just needs some blu tac on the sides to hold into position, i know its not original but better then empty until and if i can source an original

4. this is the before pic, exposed

5. while i was in the mood decided to fit the d/s mudguard into position, was a but fiddly (had the brackets on the firewall wrong side) once sorted when in easily, still tossing the idea of fitting that S2 radiator panel (much better condition then mine 86"), off to bunnings to buy more stuff

1. bought some 100mm wide aluminium to sort out the rear lights, hole too big for the lamps i have bought so cut to size

2. drilled out the necessary rivets in prep for the alum piece to slide in behind, and rivet off

3. fitted rear view

4. front view fitted

5. some body filler to close off the old hole, will need some more body filler, then sand, paint, drill out new holes for the lights, rear end getting closer to finishing off

1. putty (bog) and sanded, was on a roll today

2. painted up in green inside and out

3. painted the whole 1/4 panel, another job done. now its ready to accept the new lights/lamps, just need to drill out the new smaller holes

Q1. Can i buy some gear oil to fill up my steering box and steering relay and maybe top up my diffs as well with the one oil?
Q2. Are the S1 vs S2 windscreen tops with 7 hoops to support soft tops different in that S1 are welded into position (as part of the windscreen) and later models have a top flat bar that gets bolted into position for a soft top?

Q1. Same oil is used for everything except the engine on Series Landrovers (except V8/Isuzu), diffs, swivels, steering box, steering relay, gearbox, transfer case, overdrive.

Q2. They are quite different. The series 2/2a/3 soft top adapter is bolted on, but it is a lot more than a flat bar, being shaped to round the front of the canvas. And the top of the windscreen is narrower on the later ones.

1. hood sticks cut down to size, burs removed, ready to hire a pipe bender. left over steel from the smaller tube fits perfectly into the larger hood stick - idea being i can then weld the two halves (right and left) together at the top otherwise there is no way i could get the two bends to line up with the capping holes. should make the installation a lot easier

2. another view of the two sizes used for the hood sticks, large ones are the main hood sticks whilst the smaller ones are the supporting brackets front to back.

Just made my single largest investment on this vehicle so far for one item, due to arrive few days time.

Originally Posted by shamirj

1. putty (bog) and sanded, was on a roll today

2. painted up in green inside and out

3. painted the whole 1/4 panel, another job done. now its ready to accept the new lights/lamps, just need to drill out the new smaller holes

Q1. Can i buy some gear oil to fill up my steering box and steering relay and maybe top up my diffs as well with the one oil?
Q2. Are the S1 vs S2 windscreen tops with 7 hoops to support soft tops different in that S1 are welded into position (as part of the windscreen) and later models have a top flat bar that gets bolted into position for a soft top?

hi have part no 306384 factorey part not home made also syde drain channel307111 100 dollor per piece plus postage

1. Last night after a 1hr drive to and 1hr drive back secured one of these, was going to hire them for $20 24hrs, but bought this for only $50 comes with all dies, this is what i will be using for the bends on the hood sticks, bargain new retails for $169 cheapest i found

2. cut out these alum flat panels for the front lamps ie blinker and park lights either side of mudguards

3. made a cardboard template for the positioning of the rear lights, again will include a blinker and stop light side by side, not original but hopefully will look ok side by side, they are series LR lights afterall

4. Prep for drilling centre holes then onto the hole saw for drilling bigger holes to accept the lamps