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Thread: Tiny bit excited

  1. #861
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    some more exhaust work

    1. Again not pretty nor perfect but was the best i could do, finally after some hours of grinding got the flange onto the exhaust

    2. another view of the same thing, of course it wont go all the way to the other end though. so need to do some more minor grinding to get enough clearance so that it can roll down to the other end. this time i gave up not the batteries, will have another go tmrw...

    3. this was the rubber fuel hose with filter attached, ignore the see thru plastic hose on the end - this just goes to my fuel jerry can (not permanent)
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    Land Rover

  2. #862
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    battery update

    1. so got looking into my battery today, after charging late last week it now sits at 12.7v idle no load

    2. noticed when cranking this new battery it was very low on cranks so checked and yes its cranking at 10.3v, so went back to the battery supplier (battery world) who tested the battery and said its at 93% charge with higher levels of crank then on sticker and a good drive or charge would get back to 100%, its a good battery, this battery is less then 12months old though has been sitting around a little with infrequent starts

    3. so brought the battery back and is on charge overnight.

    the other comment he made was helpful 'what are you cranking' and was questioning the starter age and overall condition which could be not free spinning as well as it should and could be draining the battery as it needs to work hard, he recommended to lube the starter or remove and see if its spinning freely. can i lube the gears where they meet the flywheel with oil or grease???
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    Last edited by shamirj; 10th July 2020 at 02:45 PM. Reason: update
    Land Rover

  3. #863
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Measure the cranking voltage at the starter (between the starter terminal and the starter body). If this is less than that at the battery by more than 0.3V, find out where it went. Probably an earth connection. If the starter voltage is low, the starter will draw more current.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #864
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    Frustrations ...

    1. on the weekend decided to get the damn gearbox and clutch sorted once and for all, so on went the new pressure plate with the clutch friction plate (right way round) all progressing well until ... look thru the opening in the gear selector and see the gap was too big for the top hat sleeve and the press plate fingers (would only partially engage) half of the travel for the top hat was kinda wasted with no contact with the fingers. keeping in mind there needs to be some kinda gap removed the box

    2. reset the fingers on the press plate bolted up the box, started and whilst in neutral the brake drum was spinning it was not in gear as i could stop the rotation of the handbrake - brake drum with my hands. then engaged into all forward and reverse gears and the box was working as it should and unable to stop the rotation of the brake drum (handbrake) whilst in any gears. all working as it should...

    3. then bolted up seat base and two prop/tail shaft and now i have no pressure on the clutch again. was working fine before, someone shoot me... so frustrated, i thought i had nailed it and all was good till today.

    i will remove the gearstick to view the gap and workings of the top hat sleeve and the pressure plate fingers though can't imagine why this would or could have moved when it was working fine before. refuse to take out the box again, so will look closely at the cross shaft workings and its pins (again doubtful this is a problem when it was all working fine on w/end). at a loss at the moment, when trying to engage the gears could hear the gears grinding so clutch not working...
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    Land Rover

  5. #865
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    IT MOVES, YOU LITTLE RIPPER

    1. so took off the gearstick to view and the top hat sleeve was not moving whilst depressing the clutch, so took out the cross shaft and rotated it 180 degrees re fitted and ALL DONE N DUSTED. it moves beautifully on its own (FIRST TIME SINCE OWNERSHIP) went from being the worst day to the BEST day in this build within a few hours of each other

    2. So out she came with no brakes had a family member on standby with a brick to throw under the wheels if i needed brakes whilst moving in and around the front yard to re position the old girl.

    3. FIRST TIME view outside in real time with hood and tyres on, photos were a bit crappy in the garage but now look at her outside in all her glory, i can now proceed with the seatbase and seat install. FEELS SO GOOD to move on now...

    might look into getting the fuel tank installed and fill with fuel and do away with the temp jerry can. pass side guard is off for easy access to do the exhaust system. enjoy the pics
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    Last edited by shamirj; 13th July 2020 at 12:02 PM. Reason: update
    Land Rover

  6. #866
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    small update

    1. another parcel arrived today earlier then expected from the Uk, nice surprise

    2. and here it is fitted, thought the thread may be the wrong type as its really tight to screw down, but may clean up the threads and then re-tighten down further. thread was not damaged so must be the right thread. looks and feels much better then the cheap one i bought some time ago.

    When reverse is engaged does seem to get quiet close to the instrument panel so may look at bending the gearstick 'stick' so as to give more clearance from the dash.
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    Land Rover

  7. #867
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    Glad to hear that the Series I is mobile at last. Hopefully it's full steam ahead from now on, without any more setbacks, which you've already had your fair share of.
    Anyway, I just found something that may satisfy one of your needs and save you some time................

    Quote Originally Posted by shamirj View Post
    .......................................

    2. .............................. also need the middle seat base cover for the seat base, prob buy some aluminium and cut to size
    Going back about 3 weeks Joe you posted the above.
    I've been tidying up a bit more and have unearthed a couple of seat base covers complete with locking tab. However they are from a Series IIA or III and I'm not sure if they'd fit your Series I. One is 300mm wide and the other one is 325mm wide. They are both 460mm long.

    If one of them fits you can have it for $25, I might even have a seat cushion to go on it and I'll include one of those battery clamps if suitable as well.

    Disregard the grey one, it's a 109" rear toolbox cover.




    Roger


  8. #868
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    small update

    Xtreme - thank you for your offer and i did check mine but they are too narrow for the S1. I was after the middle seat base which is approx 600mm wide. Even the other two sides do not fit as mine are approx 400mm wide, lengths seem to be the same though.

    1. did some cleaning up in the shed and in the back of the S1, tend to accumulate rubbish, parts and spanners. then got onto the handbrake release mechanism which had seized up with no free play, heat gun applied and another job done.

    2. only needed 5mins of heating, and out she popped. did some cleaning around the inside and lightly sand papered the button so now it freely moves in and out. needs a proper clean, sand and paint then can install.
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    Land Rover

  9. #869
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    another small update

    1-2. driver and pass side seat back brackets, thought i had all 6 but turns out I only have 4 of them unless I unearth some somewhere else. Got some new bolts nuts from bunnings and bolted into position just couldn't find the other 2 if i had them (cant recall). May have to look thru some old pics to see what i had.

    Been looking at the exhaust and looks like the original LR exhaust is almost a perfect match to the holden system re the flange size. the other length of exhaust did not work out well so looking into another option of using the original LR exhaust.

    started up the old girl just to keep the oils and fuels lubricating even if its just sitting idle, bit loud without the exhaust but starts pretty quickly.
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    Last edited by shamirj; 17th July 2020 at 01:24 PM. Reason: forgot pics
    Land Rover

  10. #870
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    more updates

    1. Looking to purchase a new plate ID from the UK, hardly read the info though the chassis number is readable

    2. got lucky and found the nut needed for the fuel supply, this one is double ended (not original) so i cut in the middle and will take to a brake shop to make a small flared tube that i can run a rubber hose over.

    3. checked out the fuel tank, its rusted a little, poured water in the tank and it holds water so thats good

    4. another view, will go to SCA and see what they have that i can paint protect the inside against corrosion which is fuel safe - i think there is a POR product that i need to investigate and figure out a way to better clean inside the tank

    5. fuel tank was previously painted by me so the outside is done.
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    Land Rover

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