Thread: Tiny bit excited

I have been following this thread with keen interest as I did a complete chassis up rebuild of an 1954 MG TF 2 years ago, and I understand the pain you go though trying to source parts. However i am wondering why you order U bolts, nuts and bolts from overseas. I am lucky I live near a company called Metro Bolts (google them) and they supplied me with every nut, bolt, U bolt, size, strength, thread size, AF or Whitworth etc. If I did not have a bolt to show them, I would either bring the part in, or get a nut/bolt that fitted and told them what I needed. They were very helpful. Now I know they are not OEM bolts etc, but unless you are building to 100% OEM specs (and who can in treality these days) it is very hard to pick the difference. I have won a few trophies with my car, and I have never been accused of the car not being original. Surely there is a similar shop near you!Anyway a great read and keep it going!!.

Joe , I would fit the hose clips on the prop shafts on opposite sides to one another , they probably won't worry it at the speed a LR travels at & the prop shafts being short but just in case they could put the balance out with them booth on the same side.

Originally Posted by 1950landy

Joe , I would fit the hose clips on the prop shafts on opposite sides to one another , they probably won't worry it at the speed a LR travels at & the prop shafts being short but just in case they could put the balance out with them booth on the same side.

Yes. This is definitely a requirement. While the Landrover may not travel all that fast, the prop shaft does, and unless this precaution is followed, vibrations is likely, although to be fair, there are likely to be other vibrations that will make it hard to pick out. Despite this, it is worth doing simple things like this to minimise unnecessary vibration.

Or even just a couple of decent size cable ties will hold the prop shaft boots on well enough and not have the potential out of balance issues.

Another point - make sure that the end tail of the hose clips will not catch on sticks etc when going forward.

I will turn the hose clips around to opp ends but cant believe something so light could throw out the balance of the shafts, but point taken.

As to the bolt shops yes we have local ones but the U bolts i had angle grinded off and threw out so had no measurements, rooky mistake throwing something out before purchasing replacement. Also sometimes the bolts look similar when bought but don't actually fit as in the front springs. Sometimes more easier to get the real bolt then muck around with others though is prob more expensive this way.

minor set back

1. purchased locally LR axle strap for series

2. turns out its way too short...

3. measured the strap to find its 90cm long, so need to return and find a correct strap, didn't realise they come in diff sizes, can someone clarify for me please

Originally Posted by shamirj

.....

3. measured the strap to find its 90cm long, so need to return and find a correct strap, didn't realise they come in diff sizes, can someone clarify for me please

Long wheelbase and short are different, I suspect Series 1 is different to Series 2/2a/3, and the Australian military chassis is different again!

1. steering box side panel removed and exposed

2. bottom cover removed, as well as the arm to the rest of the steering system

3. steering wheel as is

my problem is i have no steering as in the steering wheel is solid and will not turn even with all these items removed, i saw a youtube clip re taking the shims off the end (end float) to allow movement but mine does not move at all, let alone if it was all connected. please help what should i do to get free play (turn of the steering wheel), the little piece in first pic that sits on the main shaft is free and moves so think something is stuck with the main shaft - and how do i release or free up???

months ago the steering wheel was moving with a lot of force, now seems very tight and does not want to move at all.

axle strap sent back awaiting refund, new shocks ordered for the rear.