Thread: Tiny bit excited

1 flipped for ease of cleaning and painting the underside of chassis
2 extent of the damage on the crossmember beneath the gearbox, now the real fun begins and lots of welding...

will have a rest and maybe do some cleaning and prepping of the chassis before getting stuck into welding, cutting with grinder should be fairly easy but welding is another story

1 quick clean up with the angle grinder and the surface was prepped for painting
2 decided to funnel some fish oil into the holes whilst chassis upside down, guess what, the excess fish oil when rubbed off takes away the paint, rooky mistake. oh well.

now thinking how can i get more fish oil sprayed into the chassis holes, maybe a clear tube on the end of a spray gun perhaps...

1-2 before shots of the front of chassis mounts for the front bumper
3-4 after shots with rust cut out, just need some steel offcuts to match up and weld

1 front chassis point of rust cut out, new replacement metal placed in and welded, not the best weld but its firm
2 ground down, needs some paint to stop rusting if it rains but have run out of paint.
3 using this set up for extracting my bushes but it aint working quite right, just socket bending, i dont have the perfect size socket which maybe the problem
4 starting cutting up the diff and axle assembly by grinding off the u bolts
5 all done and diff/springs have now been separated, finally

1-2 again on the front bumper section, all welded badly, needs a final grind down to smooth off, painted some black spray paint to stop rust forming for now till respray later on

3 this was the section completely removed from the front where the holden engine was fitted, so replacing this, needs more cleaning up welding etc

4 while at it thought to drill out some new holes on one side as needed.

the larger cross member behind the gearbox is a problem and a bigger piece of welding required. but need a template before i remove the crossmember where its rusted out.

1 hole in the rear crossmember, needed a steel bit inserted and closed off to the elements
2 steel piece welded into position both sides needed doing
3 weld grinded down
4 small amount of putty to clean up my attempts at welding and leaving small holes behind
5-6 sanded back and cleaned up ready for paint
7 gearbox crossmember cut open just need some steel to close off and weld up
8 bloody glue left behind from previous owner all over the bulkhead, so a lot of mess and sanding done here to clean her up, had dust all over me by the time i was done. small amounts left over to clean up with a small bit instead of using the grinder

1 chassis top (actually bottom part) looking upside down, was removed
2 new piece of steel bought from local steel merchant, was after flat piece of steel but they had none, so this will have to do

on another note thought to lightly sand off the chassis in prep for some paint and the cold gal came off surprisingly easy, not sure if i got a bad batch but have now sanded most of the chassis in prep for paint prob silver colour, but this time going to spray it on as opposed to brushing it on. dusty dirty work but still need to finish off some welding and grinding as well. bought new tub of putty as well. so just need the time and energy to push thru

Have you considered that a sanded smooth finish may be detrimental to getting the paint to stick, whereas a hand wire brushed finish will give you something for the paint to bond to? Then a dust clean & then a degrease. Just my thoughts & as I did mine & it is still sticking on the chassis years later. IMHO it doesn't really matter what the chassis looks like as it is not normally seen, provided it is structurally sound, but other surfaces are.
I would then use 'Chassis Black" paint on it. FWIW, I would not spray it on but hand brush it so you can work it in every which way.




Rustproofing chassis applicator jets - Google Search

now thinking how can i get more fish oil sprayed into the chassis holes, maybe a clear tube on the end of a spray gun perhaps

If you really wish to get fluid inside the Chassis Rails are you aware that removing the blind plastic caps in the rear X member in line with the rails will give you a clear passage through to the internal surfaces of the rails for a small diam. hose & jet? If you don't have these they can easily be drilled.

I wouldn't normally mention these points but you seem to be having a coating problem so they are worth considering.