Thread: Tiny bit excited

5. That door check stop on Series 1 mudguards was not one of Rover's brightest ideas - it invariably resulted in a dent in the mudguard from the wind catching the door - clearly visible in that picture. My Series 1 had a leather door check strap added by the previous owner (SMA) to prevent this.

1-4 time to remove that damn steering relay now that the new one is on order from the UK. thought to make a start on the removal of these. cut off some left over steel, drilled some holes and made up two brackets (L shaped) for the top and two for the bottom. threaded rod was used and after carefully measuring my very small bottle jack (only 20cm tall) and cutting the rods to length, error... cut them off too short not accounting for the thickness of the chassis. just need 40cm x 4 rods from bunnings (cut to length at home) and hopefully this contraption will work to lift up the relay. all bolts undone, curious to see if it works or not?

re the radiator, looks to me I am going to have real problems here. the headlight above the relay is ok but the other headlight protrudes too far back into the radiator space for me to fit a radiator even a small one at that. the distance between the two headlights is 33cm approx which is far too small to fit even a 149 Holden radiator which is apporx 50cm wide or long. maybe i should have cut out the chassis like people do to accommodate the holden engine but now that i have the engine in place i don't want to remove the engine to modify the chassis???

1. my little jack handle was way too short and under a lot of pressure so thought to find another longer handle

2. found this in the shed, thankfully it was the same diameter to fit into the jack

3-4. bit by bit it was coming up and out, was surprised this actually worked, was a little frightened of the load it was under and was concerned it would fly up thru the bonnet, but it eased up after the initial struggle just squirted wd40 as i raised the relay

5. what was left of the hole for the relay after removal

6. relay removed with all crap around it, rusted bits of steel

7. this was what was left on the timber support which the jack sat on after a gentle clean up inside the hole

to my surprise it all went pretty good and easy really. raced off to bunnings and found 3m length of threaded bar and then needed to find the approp nuts which was a race around the shed to find nuts for this thread as it was diff to the previous version of threaded bar. happy days

my next question, how do i fit the new relay in, do i tap with a hammer on the outer edge carefully with lots of grease on the inner steel tubing

Originally Posted by JDNSW

5. That door check stop on Series 1 mudguards was not one of Rover's brightest ideas - it invariably resulted in a dent in the mudguard from the wind catching the door - clearly visible in that picture. My Series 1 had a leather door check strap added by the previous owner (SMA) to prevent this.

I thought the leather stop straps were standard.

I remember seeing many series with them fitted.

Originally Posted by shamirj

1. my little jack handle was way too short and under a lot of pressure so thought to find another longer handle

2. found this in the shed, thankfully it was the same diameter to fit into the jack

3-4. bit by bit it was coming up and out, was surprised this actually worked, was a little frightened of the load it was under and was concerned it would fly up thru the bonnet, but it eased up after the initial struggle just squirted wd40 as i raised the relay

5. what was left of the hole for the relay after removal

6. relay removed with all crap around it, rusted bits of steel

7. this was what was left on the timber support which the jack sat on after a gentle clean up inside the hole

to my surprise it all went pretty good and easy really. raced off to bunnings and found 3m length of threaded bar and then needed to find the approp nuts which was a race around the shed to find nuts for this thread as it was diff to the previous version of threaded bar. happy days

my next question, how do i fit the new relay in, do i tap with a hammer on the outer edge carefully with lots of grease on the inner steel tubing

The new relay should not be a tight fit in the chassis except in the locating ring screwed to the bottom.

If necessary, a short piece of pipe wide enough to go outside the bolts on top (or, indeed on top of them) a piece of wood across the pipe, and tap gently.

You are lucky the unit came out easily - jacking against the end of the shaft means you are relying on the strength of the four bolts in the top to stop the shaft + top plat + broken bolts +bushes + spring being pushed out, leaving the relay body behind. It would have been a good idea to use a short bit of pipe (or a very large socket) on the bottom as well.

1. tried to undo the snail on one side of the rear brakes to find this, all in pieces, might try local brake shop to see if they have any

2. retaining ring for the bottom of the relay was filthy so cleaned up and painted

3. one of these holes (right side) i think is for the choke (ordered a S2 one) not sure what the other hole is for???

Don't think the brake shop will have one , put an add in parts wanted on forum some one may have a spare backing plate.

Originally Posted by 1950landy

Don't think the brake shop will have one , put an add in parts wanted on forum some one may have a spare backing plate.

Don't worry about the add Joe, I have three 11" backing plates with two snail adjusters in each and one still has the two wheel cylinders in place.
I also have a few stub axles, hubs, wheels etc if required.