1. Well needed to buy another piece of steel tubing, cut to length at home then straight onto the bender to fix the centre hoop. Only managed the bends, obviously needs more work yet but slowly getting there. I need to flatten the ends once the correct length is good then build up brackets to be able to secure to horizontal bars. Need more brackets for the hood pieces above the doors and along the side of the doors as well. Loosely sitting in position here.
Land Rover
1. These turned up yest in the mail, so decided to have the day off bending tubes and instead completed the rear end wiring for blinkers, park lights and brakes. All wired up to the front chassis exit point so far. Arm was a bit soar so took it easy today. These bullets make wiring easy but they have their own crimping tool which i don't have so had to do with what i had but its done. Thought to solder but with both ends open on the bullet thought to crimp instead see how we go long term, easy fix later if they play up.
Land Rover
That type of connector should be soldered & crimped. You may find you will have trouble with getting a good connection.
I had a look for the hood bow clamps today but could not find them .
1. Well went to clark rubber and bought some more rubber for the door jams (forgot the ones for the door tops), prob not fit the door tops during summer but did it anyway, seems easy to apply not sure how long they will last though
2. here is one of the channels done makes a nice clean finish
3. stuffed my left arm (old injury) but managed to get the damn centre hoop completed, ends cut off and just needs more suitable bolts, it may need another bolt/nut as one tends to want to pivot un-tightened and noticed the original has two bolts to stop this happening
4. other side view with both sides rolled up.
Thanks 1950Landy, no worries will just order new ones with my next order. cheers. Now to rest this damn left shoulder/arm.
Land Rover
You have done well with those hood bows![]()
I've only ever soldered that type of bullet, never had an issue.
I usually strip back so that a mm or so of the wire sticks through the end, bend that over and solder. You order them to suit the wire size you are using so that just the wire fits through the hole and the insulation stops in the taper in the back of the bullet.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
Thank you to all suggestions, all have been noted, appreciate the feedback
1. so to get these damn washers on, had to remove some hardware (bolts) raise the hood sticks individually in each corner - was a big job for something small, anyway all 4 corners have the washers positioned for welding later on.
2. I have placed an order from the UK for the clamps just hope they fit, there are many for S2-3, just wonder whether there are a difference between the series, maybe a thicker or thinner hoodstick making the clamp a diff diamater
3. nearest the door has the rope end tied up in a ball
4. is this the correct fitment to just slide over and when pulled tight holds into position?
5. as she sits in the garage at the moment, i tightened up all the ropes for the canvas just to see how well it all sits, still have a little wiggle room for the hoodsticks to move up or down to tighten up the canvas stretch, some minor adjustments to be made prior to welding those washers in position
Land Rover
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