Thread: Shorty - my 1952 80' Series 1

Good luck with the bulkhead repairs Troy; yours looks quite good compared to mine.

I have just come in from the shed doing exactly the same job and replacing the top box section. The rust in the pillars is caused by a double skin trapping moisture; it is not the most enjoyable of repairs and probably one of the hardest Land Rover bulkheads to fix, because of the curved pressings, but I should get it finished tomorrow, thank goodness

Cheers Charlie

Thanks Charlie - any tips mate would be well received.

Looking forward to seeing this beasty, hopfuly soon. After the baby who is over due now.

Oh well, Easo

Hi there Troy

You have found a good starting vehicle - is complete and in reasonable condition for being found in a paddock.

All the best

PS the bulk head repairs are realitively easy if your handy with a mig welder........

Wayne

Thanks Easo and Wayne.

And all the best with the Bub for you and the wife mate

As Wayne says Troy, a MIG is handy

I cut the rusty bit out with an angle grinder and a thin cutting disc, but you have to be very careful of kickback of course. I took my bulkhead off and set it up on a nice high table to do the welding.

I make up the repair patch in cardboard first and when I am happy with the shape I trace around it on to 1mm cold rolled steel, which is very easy to shape. On the pillars I made the patch go to the edge where the hinges are so that the weld can be where the original one was. Be aware that the shut face side of the pillar is narrower than the wheel arch side (tapered) so the repair patch needs an angle greater than 90 degrees on it.

I make sure that the patch is a bit smaller than the hole so that the weld can penetrate to the back. I take a lot of care while tacking, to make sure that the face of the patch and the base metal is perfectly aligned, otherwise filler will be required in greater amounts than desirable.

I also got the sandblasting man to blast inside the pillars before I repaired them.

I made new captive nuts and cages and welded them in place before putting the patch in; and this time I used a 60 grit flap-disc to sand the welds down, which does a much nicer job than a grinding disc and a quicker job than the polisher/sander.

Apologies if you knew this already, but it might be useful to someone,

Cheers Charlie

P.S. I have/will post pics on the Trans Tasman site.

Thanks mate, its all new to me and I am more than happy to get advise

I pick up some new springs for the front of Shorty tomorrow (well... new=from another Landy). These shall let her sit up where she belongs and get the front axle off the bump stops .

Plans this week are to treat the chassis and paint it on the weekend, with the bulk head to follow. I am hanging out to get hold of better front guards and then really get into the work. Sorting out the motor before the guards go on and painting happens.