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Thread: Shorty - my 1952 80' Series 1

  1. #31
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    Mar 2008
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  2. #32
    olmate Guest
    Paint dried now but I need some advice on the colouring. I bought Deep Brunswick Green to start with (reason being it was kill rust and went over all the prep work I did on the chassis after the 'real' rust prevention). Now that it is dry - it is way off the mark as I was wanting to get as close to Bronze Green as I could (see the rim colours).

    Is there anywhere / or any brand of paint that sells Bronze Green off the shelf; or do I have to have it mixed? Maybe the whole thing becomes Deep Brunswick Green

    Might try to get a better photo for you lot to look at when the sun 'does' get up. This is just me checking things out at the moment and finding the colour that I want... motor needs to be done first of course.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by olmate View Post
    Rim: I am down one rim. This shouldn’t be too hard to find though..
    Got one, PM sent.

    Nice progress mate.

  4. #34
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    green

    Go to any Wattyl retail outlet and ask for the BSC ( British Standard Colour ) #24 Deep Bronze Green. The BSC code system has been around since the early 1930's . Wattyl can supply it in many forms e.g., industrial enamel or even expensive marine grade paint . Paint is overpriced generally, and if you know a friendly Panel beater business.. you may get it for trade price.

    http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/bsc1931wm_1.htm

    BTW that Kill rust stuff : It Isn't compatible with other industrial enamels that use GP thinners or enamel thinners .. if you try to spray over it with auto enamel, you'll get blistering . Kill Rust uses turps from memory .

    Mike

  5. #35
    olmate Guest
    Thanks Mike; very much appreciated. Looks like I have to do some homework before I get carried away with the painting bit


    Replacement front springs are on and she is sitting up level with the back now ... 'very' high indeed ... high enough for the front prop shaft to hit the cross member - I had to take it off to tighten everthing up and I shall have to either fit wedges to the front end or go to something lower It does look good tho Photos to follow.

  6. #36
    olmate Guest
    Well Mike - I did what you had advised me to do and (you guessed it) I have the right paint colour and am very happy now thanks mate

  7. #37
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    Sep 2006
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    springs

    Troy,

    I've seen that problem before : the front prop shaft hitting the crossmember when new front springs are fitted . A local here owns a 86" .. it's a kinda hot rod with a 2.5 litre motor and range rover transmission and later axles. To make the prop shaft clear the crossmember , he just cut a small piece of the crossmember out and welded in a U or V shaped section . So the crossmember now has a small 'U' indent to clear the prop shaft .

    Other than doing that .. you can use the original springs ! If they are not badly corroded , you can reset them by Hammering them.. Each spring is disassembled . Then leaf by leaf , you use a Anvil and a heavy hammer to hammer them, using the HORN of the anvil . Don't do it on a cold day as the spring metal may fracture .. its best done on a warm sunny day . Years ago, this was a common job on cars.

    Good news on the paint .
    Mike

  8. #38
    olmate Guest
    Well here is the photo I should of had up yesterday. Not the best but you can see she is level now and starting to look tidy. I have brushed on some paint in front of the rear wheel etc and it is looking the goods. Paint will come later but I shall get some into the shed this week

    And I shall be doing as Mick has suggested with the front cross member and cutting a section out of it; replacing it with a 'U' shape part.

  9. #39
    Join Date
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    You are a machine Troy! Nice work.

    Planning your next vehicle yet?

  10. #40
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by olmate View Post
    Replacement front springs are on and she is sitting up level with the back now ... 'very' high indeed ... high enough for the front prop shaft to hit the cross member - I had to take it off to tighten everthing up and I shall have to either fit wedges to the front end or go to something lower It does look good tho
    I have to put new springs in my "Baby" - series 1 88.

    I am interested to know what you did with the springs to cause the problem - I do know that if you put in new springs when everything is off the ground and everything is tightened up then the front does ride too high and causes the problem with the driveshaft.

    So is this the issue or did you get heavier or "high lift" springs?

    Thanks

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

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