Hi and welcome
I can't help you much at all on the parts situation, though.
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						G'day all just bought myself a s2a landy 109 ute and joined the site (great site plenty of info!). I'm part way through getting the rig ready for a roadworthy but will need to fix abit of chassis rust first, mostly around the front spring hangers and the rear spring front hanger. I've seen on ebay UK theres some for sale but i'm just wondering what sites you guys suggest for these sections and other landy spares? Also with the cutting and shutting of the chassis will I need to brace it at all so it doesnt twist? I was thinking i might get away with disconnecting springs front and rear and supporting chassis on axle stands to take the tension off the chassis? Sorry for all the questions, I'm a recovering landcruiser driver! Any help would be great
Cheers
Crocky
Hi and welcome
I can't help you much at all on the parts situation, though.
Hi and welcome. I get most of my spares (either OEM or 3rd party) from Graeme Urch at British Car Components, in Baillie St., Nth Melb. He's always been very helpful to me. Don't know about chassis parts tho...
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hey mate!
I did exactly what you are doing with taking the springs off and putting the whole thing on car stands.
I got the replacement front spring hangers from 4 wheel drives (even though alot of people are wary of this mob, I Havent had any problems.) They sell the hangers and chassis outriggers.
While it was up in the air i took the chance to paint the whole chassis to prevent (prevent, pfft) Rust.
 YarnMaster
					
					
						YarnMaster
					
					
                                        
					
					
						You can make the repair sections quite easily out of black sheet about 2mm thick and then weld them together at the corners, which will save heaps of money compared to buying them.
If you have to replace metal around the spring hanger holes, make a jig first out of close fitting round bar and a rigid spacer, so that you can position the new hanger in the right place,
Cheers Charlie
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						hey guys thanks for the warm welcomes and tips, ill hopefully knock it over in the next few weeks. The chassis already been painted black by the previous owner to mask up some shoddy repairs. Ive started painting the interior, will hopefully paint the body over the next week. I'll post some pics when i get a chance. thanks again for the help
cheers
crocky
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						a little suggestion to help you make fitting new dumb irons easier is to make a jig before removing the old ones, here's one i did earlier (if the picture doesn't show just click the title)
i built it in situ and in the end of the tube between each dumb iron i welded the old original nuts and used bolts new bolts to locate the spring mounting points, in hindsight i should also have fabricated another piece (removable) to support the bumper mounting points as i got the nearside one a little nose down
then there is the repair method such as i'm doing at present on my '65 109
it got too late/dark to photo the finished article, welds linished and front closed up, but the bumper fits really nicely on that side now
p.s.
apologies if the pictures all need thier links clicking on for you to view them but p/bucket has been dicking about and i don't post on this forum too often so i'm uncertain how to get my pictures to show
I bought two replacement Dumb Irons from Paddock spares in the UK. $170au including freight to Norfolk Island via Aussie is pretty cheap!
Saved a lot of fabrication
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						i did the first pair of dumb irons with replacements as it was my first landrover and was unsure what to do along with having the bottom plate rotted out back to below the shock absorber mount....
the second one which is being repaired is being done this way for two reasons, first off the rot isn't too bad and secondly (probably more importantly to rivet counters) you can still see the original chassis number on that dumb iron(plus all it's costing me is the same time as swapping dumb irons, no money costs)
Fair enough. Just looking thru you pics, your ones are no where near as bad as the ones on mine. I went this way because of the time saving over fabricating my own
This is what i have been up against!!Not the best pic of the dumb irons but gives you an idea!
307.jpg
Any pic's of your complete vehicle?
Last edited by Lostkiwi; 22nd November 2010 at 09:44 PM. Reason: Added pic
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