Chassis is already done and been repainted.
maybe paint stripper and pressure washer like you suggest might be the way to go
Lots of elbow grease... I've found the flap wheels that go on an angle grinder pretty useful on the chassis where you can get a good surface to work on and dont have to worry about damage.
Body panels I've yet to find anything much better than paint stripper. A pressure cleaner can be used to remove the paint once it's reacted with the paint stripper, this saves some work scraping it off. I am going to get my bulkhead soda/sand blasted but havent yet asked for quotes.
I have found "Citristrip" better than the traditional paint strippers as it is less caustic and stays wet longer.
3M make a wheel that goes in a drill that is designed to strip paint, looks like a round scotchbrite pad. These can be good to clean up stubborn bits of paint but are no easier than stripper on a large surface.
Regards,
Tote
Go home, your igloo is on fire....
2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project
Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....
Chassis is already done and been repainted.
maybe paint stripper and pressure washer like you suggest might be the way to go
Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......
Paint stripper and pressure washer...easy. Back to ally and start fresh.
Failing that Mobile Soda Blasting - Home
IMHO your creating miles of work by stripping back. Just use wet and dry and sand to smooth finish.Make sure you use plenty of wax and grease remover before spraying. This is what I did with my ambo a few years ago, and even though we did it in a day and the humidity was high the results where more then acceptible. The trick is to go with a good spraying enamel. Thin it until it starts to slow drip off mixing stick. Spraying enamels are self leveling and provides a thick layer.At the end of day you have to ask yourself, are you going to use it for what it was built in the bush,or concourse. Either way that's what I have done with a few cars and never had any problems.
paul
Paul's suggestion is the big question!
If you want the vehicle to use and look good, then that's the way to go.
However if you want the vehicle to be in a condition as it came out of the original dealers yard then you'll have to do a lot more work, take all the panels apart strip them and paint them off the vehicle.
We have an enthusiast here in Sydney, who removes all the gal, completely strips the vehicle (including de-skinning the roof) and then replaces all the rivets with the correct type in the correct place. Even makes some of the rivets when necessary.
It may be a lot more work, but in a show and shine you can see the vehicles that have been stripped and those that have been painted over.
It's all personal choice.![]()
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
I'm not going for a show and shine...as the vehicle will be used all be it for only very small use. I was more concerned by the fact I had so many different coloured paints to cover, I wasn't sure whether that would of been a deciding factor every panel is off the car so was looking at spraying each individual panel separate before placing back on the chassis...all on the same day though as I dont want different colours/shades. it will be a test for me as I have never sprayed anything other then black through my gun.
I think perhaps I should just do what paul suggested then rub it back put a couple of coats of good primer and then paint. I had actually heard loeaving older paints underneath is a good thing as it gives the primer something to bite on to.
However others have then said if you scratch it in the bush it will annoy you to see the other colours come through.
I dont want to create even more work for myself but I dont want the car to look crap either if I'm already putting this effort in. choices choices![]()
Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......
If the paint underneath is in good condition, it will be OK to paint over it provided that:
1. What you put on top of it is compatible with the undercoat. Some paints and thinners react with others, so you will need to test your new paint first. This can become problematical if you can't identify what type of paint has been used before and because you have so many colours it may be impossible to find out.
2. The existing finish is stable. If there are many layers of paint they may be more likely to crack and spoil your new finish.
3. There is no rust under the existing finish.
New primer will stick quite happily to bare steel if it is properly prepared, especially if you use an etch primer first,
Cheers Charlie
oh ok as I don't know what paints have ben used maybe I should strip them...Chazza if I did strip I would probably have to use etch primer anyway as panels are all ali i believe other then the bulk head but I don't realy class that as a panel (I don't know why though)
Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......
spraying enamel will go over anything. Acryllic is the paint that needs a sealer.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
So despite having a number of different paint on Diana your saying if i sprayed an enamel it would not matter?
Am I right in thinking I should be spraying a primer regardless of what paint I put on
Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......
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