Thread: Bleeding Brakes!!!

Threads merged. Don't post the same question in multiple areas.

Originally Posted by custommade

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Anyone please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There is some advice about bleeding the brakes with the front elevated, however there are two methods you may not have tried.

Pressure bleeding the system and the second one is reverse bleeding.

To reverse bleed, start at the most distant wheel and have the reservoir empty. Using a syringe and tight fitting hose on the bleed nipple. Open the bleed nipple and syringe the fluid into the cylinder. At the same time have someone watch for bubbles rising in the reservoir and to remove fluid as it fills (to stop it overflowing). When there are no more bubbles, lock off the bleed nipple and move to the next closest cylinder and repeat.

Once you have done all four wheels see what your pedal is like.

When you clamp off the wheels at the flex pipe, releasing just one wheel at a time, does one wheel give a different response to the others? If they all feel the same, maybe its an assembly mistake.

Would it work to take off one drum at a time, tighten a ratchet strap around the shoes to stop them popping seals or whatever happens, and getting some one to gently pump the brakes? You might see whats going wrong that way.

Bleeding is fairly easy on these machines so I doubt it's your method.

As suggested. Clamp off all three hoses, and confirm you have a rock solid pedal. If not, remember you can bleed at any union. Bleed rear brakes first, one at a time, with adjusters slackened right off, and if necessary clamping the shoes in tight after removing the drums.

Then reclamp the rear hose and do the front ones, one at a time, again, with the adjusters backed right off, and the shoes clamped if necessary. Remember, again, that you can bleed at any union. Do it systematically - if you cannot get the hydraulic system rock solid on a circuit, such as a front wheel, try bleeding at the unions, and consider reverse bleeding.

John

I have done the presser bleeding .I have a pressure bleed kit have tried reverse bleeding but didn't find it to successful just messy and as I said it has rock solid pedal with the clamps on, gets worse as I take each one off have bleed them tacking one clamp off at a time as well. never had this much trouble bleeding a landy before.
Because its solid with the clamps on I figure its at the cylinders but I cant get any air out of them just clear fluid.

It will be in the adjustment.

If you have the lines clamped, only two shoe's will move. As you release the clamps more shoes start moving giving more pedal travel. If you are getting no bubbles, there are none.

Check your shoes. The rears are leading and trailing on each wheel. Where you put them makes a difference. Make sure snail cams operate the correct way and shoes are perpendicular to the drums. Lift wheel off the ground and adjust snail cam untill it stops the wheel dead, then back off 2 clicks.

Just one incorrectly adjusted shoe out of 8 can make woeful brakes.

CC

my money says you have the shoes in the wrong spots and you cant get them do adjust up.

Stage 1/county./defender/perentine brake warning

heres how to check the rears.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

my money says you have the shoes in the wrong spots and you cant get them do adjust up.

Stage 1/county./defender/perentine brake warning

heres how to check the rears.

it's a short wheelbase so not the same brakes as the Defender/110/109

Originally Posted by custommade

So I've done all the searches and I'm not new to series Land rovers or bleeding brakes but this thing is really starting to **** me off. Been about 6 months now on and off trying to get a decent pedal in my 2A swb. .....