Thread: Series 2a restoration

Originally Posted by crackers

I actually meant length, diameter and thread. I'm also surprised you got them from Bunnings. Don't they screw into the block? In which case, they'd be some weird pommy thread wouldn't they? Or am I confused again?

Sorry I miss the understood - 10cm long. They were imperial thread. I took a nut which fitted the size of thread on the plug that went into the housing and it all worked fine. They did have them in a range of lengths. I thought you were going to tell me that they were not going to be strong enough. All the best Scott

Originally Posted by Chinookflyer

Do you reckon I could do that work myself - I have never work d on an engine before - then again I have never taken one out before!

If you have a factory workshop manual*, and ask questions here, I can't see why not. You seem to be doing OK so far.

*The factory manual details each operation step by step, and has a list of required tools at the top.

John

OK it looks like I need to: 1) clean and paint, 2) replace all core plugs, 3) replace head gasket, 4) replace oil seals and gaskets, 5) check bores, 6) decoke the engine. Have not got a clue how to do any of this so I better get reading! I was also wondering if I should replace the water pump while I have the engine out?

Comments and suggestions most welcome

Originally Posted by Chinookflyer

OK it looks like I need to: 1) clean and paint, 2) replace all core plugs, 3) replace head gasket, 4) replace oil seals and gaskets, 5) check bores, 6) decoke the engine. Have not got a clue how to do any of this so I better get reading! I was also wondering if I should replace the water pump while I have the engine out?

Comments and suggestions most welcome

Are you just using the Landy restoration manual?

Originally Posted by Chinookflyer

OK it looks like I need to: 1) clean and paint, 2) replace all core plugs, 3) replace head gasket, 4) replace oil seals and gaskets, 5) check bores, 6) decoke the engine. Have not got a clue how to do any of this so I better get reading! I was also wondering if I should replace the water pump while I have the engine out?

Comments and suggestions most welcome

Unless the water pump is leaking or rough to turn, I would leave it - they are easy enough to replace with the engine in, and are fairly expensive.

John

Another good day. Managed to get the gearbox and transmission out along with the propeller shafts. Any suggestions for what I should do with the box while it is out. It seems to work fine - even seems to be sync between the the lower gears - it is a 71 model so this might have been fitted??



It is now living under Kath my Series 1 project



The chassis is starting to look quite naked



I have started removing all the steering which is connected to the chassis - had to use some brute force to crack some of the steering joints. Next I will start to think about removing the springs, diffs and the rest of the running gear. On the whole the chassis is in VERY good condition. There are however a couple of spots of rust on the back cross member.





My intention is to cut these out and have a go at welding come new plates in. Should I do this before I get the chassis blasted after - not sure?

All the best

Scott

That gearbox looks quite happy hiding under Kath - you may have trouble separating them

I'm finding that despite the chassis looking naked, there about a zillion bits and pieces bolted to it

I'll be interested in your cutting and welding efforts. What sort of welder will you be using? (arc, mig, oxy) Are you an expert welder or a beginner like me?

You'd be better getting the chassis blasted prior to carrying out any welding, the blasting could uncover some areas that also might need attention, might as well carry out all the required work in one hit.