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Thread: Introducing Matilda

  1. #21
    schuy1 Guest
    looks very nice base to work with .Yep never had a lot of probs with bleeding series brakes, although the CB type MC can be a bit painful, Air gets trapped in the big nut end. A steep set of car ramps help though. I agree with Mini brakes and their cousin the Mokes! I remember driving around for months with no rears as I couldn't get them working and giving up in a tantrum!!

    Cheers Scott

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Sandgate, Brisbane
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    Work has started, not in earnest but when time allows.

    We've been trying to get the retaining screws out of the front drums with nice words & WD40 but they were so stuck that I bought an impact driver and took to them with gusto.

    5 of the six came out easily but the last one has shattered the screwdriver bit & still not moved.

    I'd like to try some heat but am unsure if I heat the drum or the screw.

    Should I just drill them out?



    We've discovered we need new shoes on the rear but the front ones look OK.

    Is this enough meat on the shoe?




  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    Blair Athol, Adelaide South Aust.
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    Heaps

    Cheers Rod

    Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Westlake ,brisbane
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    Buy your self an impact driver , it will come with 2 size flat blades & 2 Phillip's.
    Just have to hit the driver with a hammer & the screws should come undone.
    You will find it very handy with a lot of screws on L/R's. The other thing bis CRC Freeze which you spray on the screw & wait a minute & the screw should shrink enough to undo the screws . I think the impact driver will be the least expensive.
    Sorry didn't read your post completely , I see you already bought an impact driver . You could also try hitting the head of the screw with a drift
    about the same size as the screw head. You can also heat the screw so it expands then let it cool before using the impact driver.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Logan Village area S.E. QLD
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    We have that sane problem here with James's series III, tried the impact driver, everything then Harry heated the screw up with the oxy and it came straight out.

    Mrs hh
    Series Landy Rescue

    Parts, welding, finger folding, Storage, Painting, Fabrication, Restorations,
    Our FB Page..
    https://www.facebook.com/SeriesLR?ref=bookmarks

    '51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Sandgate, Brisbane
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    Took some doing but I got it out

    Heat didn't work but the drill did eventually






  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
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    A smidge of graphite grease or antiseize of some description when you replace them.


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Sandgate, Brisbane
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    TGC wanted to take a break from assigments so we did a little job on Matilda and replaced the tail lights & indicators.





  9. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Sandgate, Brisbane
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    Got a little bit more time yesterday & did the front lights & indicators.

    We went with side lights on top because that was what TGC wanted.

    I've also added a number plate light.

    Just waiting for the Headlight Wiring Upgrade Kit to arrive so I can finish the electrics.




  10. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Connolly, WA
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    Photos on the last 2 posts appear blocked...?

    Cheers,

    Lou

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