Betsy, my 67 s2a build.

**67hardtop** · 8th November 2016, 03:25 PM

Today i decided to have a go at the brake piping. Some time ago i was at U pull it and they had a s3 in there with a siezed ford motor in it. It also had a cabstar box in it that had destroyed 5th gear. I deduced that as the motor siezed at speed it was what destroyed the gearbox. I could tell by the flat spots in the rear tyres. So i removed the dual circuit master cyl and had the foresight to take the brake pipes and the proportioning valve at the same time, along with the transfer case adaptor plate from the back of the box. I also got the front swivel s and axles and the rear axles as spares. I also got all the hubs as i needed to have studs for the heystee hubs. Ok back to the brakes. I eyeballed the s3 master cyl's position on my s3, (single circuit), to find where to locate the prop. valve. Its in the same spot as the original tee piece joiner for the brake switch and pipes. So i then used the original rear brake pipe as a guide and made up a new pipe. I left the end very long so i could bend the piping to suit the prop. valve position. I then secured the pipe with the original clamps but new screws. Then i bent up a new r/h/f pipe and secured it as well, leaving it longer for fitting to the prop. valve. They were the easy ones. The l/h/f was a lot more difficult as where the pipe was originally located i thought wasn't very good. It goes back to the x member under the engine and follows it around and then back up forwards to the joiner, like a big "U" shape. I didn't quite have enough pipe left, so i routed it across the front x member and then down the drivers side to the prop. valve. Perfect. I secured the pipe. I then mounted the prop. valve and then bent the ends of the pipes and cut and flared the ends and fitted them. Looks good. I painted the pipe clamps and i also put a protective coating on the pipe ends, where the flare tool grabs the pipe and damages the coating on it, so as to stop rust. Some pics below⤵

Cheers Rod.

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**67hardtop** · 10th November 2016, 07:05 PM

Got stuck into it again this arvo. Cleaned up and painted the shockys. Cleaned up the bolts and washers. Fitted the fronts. Had to use a ratchet strap to lift up the front spring so i could fit the bottom of the shocks with new rubbers all round. I used another ratchet strap between the 2 front shocks to compress the bottom rubbers so i could fit the washers and split pins.
Then i fitted the rear shocks to the diff first. Used a ratchet strap again to fit the top of the shocks to the chassis. New rubbers here too. Antisieze grease on all the long bolts. Rubber grease on the new rubbers. All good. Painted the ends of the bolts and split pins and washers.
Getting there slowly.

I have some axle straps for the rear but i think they might be a bit short. They came with a job lot of parts i bought once upon a time. Does anyone know the proper length of the straps for a standard 109 soft top??

Cheers Rod

Pics⤵

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**68s2alwb** · 10th November 2016, 08:41 PM

Hi Rod,

I bought straps for my 109" new from the Four Wheel Drives catalogue years ago - "AW11 Rear axle rebound straps suit 1954 to 1981 LWB".

They measure 37".

**67hardtop** · 12th November 2016, 04:07 PM

Originally Posted by 68s2alwb

Hi Rod,

I bought straps for my 109" new from the Four Wheel Drives catalogue years ago - "AW11 Rear axle rebound straps suit 1954 to 1981 LWB".

They measure 37".

Yep, just checked the two straps ive got. They are 35 1/2" long. They are about 2" too short, must be for an 88". I think i need the 37" ones, as the other alternative is 38 1/2", they will be too long. Does anyone wanna swap the shorter ones for longer ones? Must be new not used. Will pay one way postage...

Cheers Rod

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**Lionelgee** · 12th November 2016, 04:57 PM

Hello Rod,

Does your vehicle have a military chassis/suspension? Or just the optional longer shackle hanger plates? People did install them for just that wee bit more clearance If so the straps will be even longer. One of my civilian Series 3 has the longer shackle hanger plates fitted while its other civilian stable mate has the stock standard ones. Military Extended Shackle plate - Part number: 537778
http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product...KLE-PLATE.html

Sorry I cannot help you with the length because all I have is the metal tab ends and a nice bit of old webbing sticking out.

There is an old thread which goes over two pages that questions the need to have the check straps anyway - Accessed November 12th 2016 from Axle Check Straps Question

Kind Regards
Lionel

**67hardtop** · 12th November 2016, 06:52 PM

No Lionel, it's not an ex military, though it's the same colour. I wouldnt mind getting one extended shackle plate setup for my r/h/f spring to combat the sag it has. I cannot afford to get the springs reset now after spending over $6000 on Snoopy in the last couple of years. The standard parts book says there are actually 4 different length diff straps, 1 for 88" and 3 for 109", being one, for standard rover axle at 37", one, for ENV type axle at 38 1/2", and one, for salisbury type rear axle, listed in the back of a later parts book, but without a specified length. I would think that there would be a fifth one as well, specified, as you have said, for military 109" with the extended shackles. I dont have any parts book or schedule for military fitted series equipment. I wish i did coz i've got a funny looking wiring thing mounted next to and connected to the wiper motor on my replacement bulkhead which was of a series 2a ex military FFR. I suspect its a filter of some sort to stop radio interferance from the wiper motor.

Cheers Rod

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**JDNSW** · 12th November 2016, 07:09 PM

You need to bear in mind that the longer shackle plates on the front will change the caster angle of the steering - the military chassis withthe longer shackle also has a longer dumb iron on the front of the chassis.

Whether this will result in significant steering issues will depend a a number of other issues.

John

**67hardtop** · 12th November 2016, 07:31 PM

This afternoon i decided to tackle the dreaded steering relay. I pulled the top and bottom bolts out and took the ends off. I had already removed both arms. I found the seals in these end caps. The bottom seal fell off when i took the arm off. The top seal was removed easily as well. I wrapped an old tee shirt around the bottom of the relay and gently, (not), tapped the shaft out with my copper 3lb hammer. It came out easily. That spring is huge! And very strong. I then cleaned everything with petrol except the split bushes. I just wiped them clean. I wire brushed 45 yrs of crap of the relay housing. Then i cleaned up all the bolts and the arms. I'm amazed at how this actually works. It cannot fail unless a bush disintergrates or the shaft breaks. Good design. PITA but a good design. With everything cleaned up i inspected the shaft for wear on the seal surfaces. There is a slight groove but i can't do much about it. I cleaned up the seal surfaces, first with 120 grit, then 240 grit wet 'n' dry paper. It cleaned up fairly well...see pic. Ive laid all the bits out and taken a couple pics. Then i've undercoated the housing and it's now drying on a hook. Will have to cut a couple gaskets and source some seals on Monday.

I noticed that my relay had a grease nipple fitted at the top of it and in pic 5 you can see the holes where the grease comes out and into the relay. It also has a bolt on the side of the housing, (you can see in the pics), that goes into a groove that's on the inside of the housing, where, i suppose, the grease is retained. I don't think its standard fitment, but,
as i had said, it was of an ex military s2. Is this standard for s2 military vehicles?

Not sure how i'm gonna collapse that spring yet but i'll work it out. I've seen many "how to's" on u tube, using hose clamps and things.

Cheers Rod

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**Lionelgee** · 12th November 2016, 10:51 PM

Originally Posted by JDNSW

You need to bear in mind that the longer shackle plates on the front will change the caster angle of the steering - the military chassis withthe longer shackle also has a longer dumb iron on the front of the chassis.

Whether this will result in significant steering issues will depend a a number of other issues.

John

Hello John & Rod,

Yes, there is a cautionary note on the bottom of the Expedition Land Rover webpage about how the steering can be effected by the longer military shackle plates Accessed November 12, 2016 from, Optimizing Series Land Rover suspension.

It is quickest if you scroll down until the photograph and find the second sentence below the photograph which starts with "...The Land Rover military shackle is two inches longer..."

Kind Regards
Lionel

**67hardtop** · 13th November 2016, 04:04 PM

So a little update. I've reassembled the steering relay without any press or any other method of mechanically compressing that huge spring. What I did was i fitted a hose clamp to the bottom split bush. I then fitted the bottom plate and bolts and sealed it with silastic. Then i dropped the brass washer in. I then put the steel washer onto the shaft, located the spring on the shaft and set about thinking how i could compress it. I grabbed a steel tubular spacer out of a series g/box and put it into the vice. I then put the top retainer plate on top and sat the split bushes on top of the plate. Then i put the washer on top of the bushes and had a hose clamp squashed slightly into an oval shape at the ready. I put the spring and shaft on top of the washer and bushes and while holding the loose clamp, i pushed down on the spring, until it was passed the point where the bushes would lock into the shaft. I dropped the clamp down tapped the bushes together with a pair of pliers, (i couldnt reach the hammer), then i pushed the hose clamp down and it held the bushes together. I relaxed for a moment. Then i pushed down on the spring again and tightened up the clamp so the bush would be closed together. Then i centralised the spring and fitted the assembled shaft to the housing. See pics. Loosened the bottom clamp a little then tapped the shaft in. I unscrewed the clamp and removed it and tapped the shaft all the way down till the top bushes were in the housing. I loosened the clamp right off and drove the shaft home. I dropped the brass washer in and sealed and fitted the top plate. Sweet. I can't believe i did it without a press. Where there's a will there's a way. It took me a few goes to get the spring and bushes clamped on but i got there eventually. I had to wear a glove on my left hand to push the shaft down coz it was hurting my hand.
I touched up the paint and its now drying on the hook. Tomorrow i'll get the seals, i hope, and then fit it to the chassis. Job done...

Cheers Rod

Some pics⤵

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