Series 2A ID Request

**Gustav** · 7th May 2016, 05:52 PM

Originally Posted by JDNSW

NRC7578 are not the original wheels - although they are quite suitable, and have a slightly greater offset, allowing a slightly better turning circle. These wheels were fitted to Series 3 not assembled in Australia (Australia had different locally made wheels) and to Australian assembled 110s , and, I think, to most Defenders with steel wheels assembled anywhere, so are reasonably common.

John

Thanks heaps John, I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I'm glad I've got those wheels then - not sure I'd like to see the turning circle any wider! I do find that on a hard lock (both sides but seems worse hard right than left) the steering seems to be fighting against something. It's hard to describe but the steering wheel wrestles and feels like your going over big river rocks. Will have to have a better look at the steering set up to see what's going on when on a hard lock.

Rowan1986 · 7th May 2016, 06:09 PM

Hey guys sorry to intrude on your conversation. But I was also wondering if it is possible to find out build info about my series 2a. Like original colour, hard top or soft, if it possibly could be ex-army. Can any one help on this cheers rowan

**Aaron IIA** · 7th May 2016, 06:15 PM

Originally Posted by Gustav

I do find that on a hard lock (both sides but seems worse hard right than left) the steering seems to be fighting against something. It's hard to describe but the steering wheel wrestles and feels like your going over big river rocks.

Is the drive engaged to the front axle?

Aaron

**pop058** · 7th May 2016, 06:30 PM

Originally Posted by Rowan1986

Hey guys sorry to intrude on your conversation. But I was also wondering if it is possible to find out build info about my series 2a. Like original colour, hard top or soft, if it possibly could be ex-army. Can any one help on this cheers rowan

It might be worth starting a thread of your own and posting up some pics and engine/chassis number info. Someone here is bound to be able to help you.

And Welcome.

Rowan1986 · 7th May 2016, 06:57 PM

Thank for the reply Paul. Good idea. Might do that tomorrow. Cheers.

**Gustav** · 7th May 2016, 07:24 PM

Originally Posted by Aaron IIA

Is the drive engaged to the front axle?

Aaron

Doh! You're a genius Aaron!
Yep it seems the mechanic doing the blue slip yesterday left the front wheels engaged. Back to normal now, thanks.

**JDNSW** · 7th May 2016, 07:53 PM

Now you know how to tell!

John

**JDNSW** · 7th May 2016, 07:57 PM

Original colour. You can usually find a bit that has not been repainted. One typical one is under the blanking plate covering the hole for the handbrake on the LHD version, but if you have a look round you will probably find other places where you can expect to see original paint.

John

**alanw** · 9th May 2016, 07:11 AM

Hello Gustav,
Just a note to add re the vehicle ID numbers.

I have a 1967 2A six - with no. 34700040A. My understanding is that it is one of the first sixes assembled in Australia.
My grandfather bought it when it was a year old in 1968 and it is completely original other than for the replacement of the inevitable broken axles and diffs.
So an A suffix would seem to be normal for early sixes.

**JDNSW** · 9th May 2016, 08:51 AM

Originally Posted by alanw

Hello Gustav,
Just a note to add re the vehicle ID numbers.

I have a 1967 2A six - with no. 34700040A. My understanding is that it is one of the first sixes assembled in Australia.
My grandfather bought it when it was a year old in 1968 and it is completely original other than for the replacement of the inevitable broken axles and diffs.
So an A suffix would seem to be normal for early sixes.

Sounds like they started to give the sixes a new series of suffixes, and did not get this into the workshop manual I got the 'D' from - or possibly the 'A' was only used on Australian assembled ones. Would not be the first time this sort of confusion happened with Rover numbers.

John

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