My 2a freshen up

**bemm52** · 23rd July 2017, 08:09 PM

Thanks for your input John Iwill attempt to remove the relay and inspect the seals after removing the grease nipple....... I guess I will have to plug it in some way.

As far as the non standard shocks go I think I will leave bracket on and use existing shocks as they appeared to work OK

If my vehicle doesn't pass muster at rego for welding on chassis I can grind brackets off and get an inspection else where, I am also a little bit concerned about the removable gearbox cross member for same reason.

Cheers Paul

**Homestar** · 23rd July 2017, 08:15 PM

I wouldn't worry too much about the welding on the chassis - for a start, most Mechanics wouldn't know what they are looking at and secondly the factory welds are hardly anything to write home about. Unless yours are nice and neat - that would make them stand out...

**JohnboyLandy** · 24th July 2017, 02:07 PM

Hey Paul good luck with the relay removal, mine was finally freed just yesterday, but not entirely free from the chassis though as part of the chassis came out with it !!. My front cross member is a bit rusted, especially on the right side around the relay, so the chassis "tube" where the relay sits gave way before the relay did. I used a combination of engine stand under the relay, and whacking with a sledge hammer, and a big bearing puller. I got there in the end, but now I will replace the cross member.

Cheers,
John

**Phil B** · 24th July 2017, 02:18 PM

The seal can be replaced in situ I think

**bemm52** · 24th July 2017, 05:57 PM

Got a bit more painted in etch.....starting to feel the deconstruction coming to an end

IMG_2809.jpg

Pleased with springs a few weeks ago I thought I may have to split them.....thinking top coat them in a couple of coats of black then squirt oil in between leaves

IMG_2811.jpg

Burnt/melted out the rubber bushes in the springs with oxy which left the outer metal sleeve which refused to drift out, I'm assuming this is the bit that people cut through to remove, will pick up a metal blade for my jigsaw next time I'm in town. What causes these sleeves to bind and how difficult is it to install new ones do I need to find a press?

IMG_2810.jpg

Hope to get these split, cleaned up and primed tomorrow.

IMG_2812.jpg

Cheers Paul

**JDNSW** · 24th July 2017, 07:14 PM

A cold chisel driven under the turnover should expand the spring eye enough to allow the sleeve to be drifted out.

**bemm52** · 24th July 2017, 07:53 PM

Originally Posted by JDNSW

A cold chisel driven under the turnover should expand the spring eye enough to allow the sleeve to be drifted out.

Will try tomorrow I'm assuming same technique for replacement.....they sure do lock in

Cheers Paul

**JDNSW** · 25th July 2017, 05:42 AM

Without the rust, and with a thin layer of antiseize, the bushes can be pulled in easily with a suitable puller you can make up with a bolt and a couple of (1/2" drive) sockets. Expnding the eye to put them in should not be needed.

**easyjo** · 25th July 2017, 07:19 AM

Looks good, I'm probably going to put off springs on mine for a while just due to the inevitable hassle if the chassis bushings..

Out if interest where did you get the springs from? Any where local?

**bemm52** · 25th July 2017, 08:36 AM

Originally Posted by easyjo

Looks good, I'm probably going to put off springs on mine for a while just due to the inevitable hassle if the chassis bushings..

Out if interest where did you get the springs from? Any where local?

The springs were on the car when I bought it, wire wheeled them to get the rust off. my chassis bushings seem OK so will leave them in.

In hindsight my spring bushings were OK too except for one that had a bolt stuck in it that I had to grind off.

The idea was to fit polybushes which I had but now I think I'll go to original, poly bushes seem a bit harsh and hard not sure how this effects the ride.

Cheers Paul

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