Thread: My 2a freshen up

U will need ur original pushrod coz u need to adjust the pushrod length to suit. I have trailer master cyls on both my s2a and s3. They work well and they r cheap. Less than $20. at auto parts stores.

Cheers Rod

Todays progress and a question, would the booster still work with a smaller master cylinder?

The cylinder shown (PBR) protrudes thru the fire wall which is a bit ugly as you are probably realising I'm a complete novice at all this.


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Cheers Paul

I'd be inclined to get the correct cylinder, which has a separate reservoir (means you need to find a reservoir) - or perhaps find the a correct one with integral reservoir. These have the outlet up, so the pipe exits up.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

I'd be inclined to get the correct cylinder, which has a separate reservoir (means you need to find a reservoir) - or perhaps find the a correct one with integral reservoir. These have the outlet up, so the pipe exits up.

Clutch (trailer type) master cylinder is shorter than the PBR brake master I have, and outlet is up, could this part work linked to booster it would keep plumbing in the engine bay

Of course I would have to buy a new cylinder but I'm prepared to do this as indicated in a previous post


Cheers Paul

Originally Posted by 67hardtop

U will need ur original pushrod coz u need to adjust the pushrod length to suit. I have trailer master cyls on both my s2a and s3. They work well and they r cheap. Less than $20. at auto parts stores.

Cheers Rod

I better clear this statement up a bit... i use trailer master cyls on both my s2a and s3 as the clutch master cyls, not the brake...sorry Paul...

Cheers Rod

Thanks for clear up Rod and John thanks to Rod I'm onto original brake master set up, learning heaps here
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bit the bullet and removed radiator and support panel, painted and reassembled brake and clutch pedal assemblies. Not sure if silvers correct but it should look good against green fire wall.

I was amazed at the fact the designers had engineered in lubrication for pedal pivots, also did some repairs on my ride on mower which was obviously built to a price.......

Cheers Paul

Good to see you moving towards the original brake master cylinder set-up. The originals may not be the world's most powerful brakes, but that home-made job with the hydraulic line protruding through the firewall above the pedals looks decidedly agricultural. Sorry if I might have missed some of the good advice so far in this thread and somebody has already mentioned this, but if you stick with unassisted brakes you can use either the earlier CB or later CV-type master cylinder. As I understood it from some sage or other when I converted my IIA to the CV in 1991, the later is better and less hassle. I have never had brake problems with my Landy, anyway.

John

Series brakes, in good condition, and properly adjusted, are adequate for the performance, although pedal pressure is high by modern standards. A worthwhile improvement for swb is to fit lwb front brakes (and master cylinder, and for lwb to fit six cylinder brakes to fours. A brake booster is also perhaps worth fitting to either.