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Thread: My 2a freshen up

  1. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Try heating the casing round the plug with a heat gun - aluminium expands more than iron. If necessary file or grip good flats on the plug to get a good grip with a spanner. You could fill a measured amount through either of the top covers, but you need the level plug for routine maintenance - you don't want to have to drain it to check the level.

    Thanks John will try heat gun my online searches suggested heating plug with oxy which seemed a bit risky to me considering alloy melting point.

    Cap your right it has to come out or at least try harder .........if square end sheers off things are no worse than at present.

    Cheers Paul

  2. #212
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    I don't think you would find it easy to damage the case with oxy unless you are using a cutting tip or very carless - aluminium is a very good conductor of heat, and the casing is fairly thick - but having said that, the heat gun is definitely free of any risk, and probably just as effective.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #213
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    Success.......... heat gun did the trick

    IMG_2914.jpg 15mm socket fits snugly on 1/2" male end on breaker bar............female end of socket was hammered on plug.

    one side of chassis painted

    IMG_2916.jpg

    Cheers Paul

  4. #214
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    I think you need a new plug!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #215
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    On its way.................

    Cheers Paul

  6. #216
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    Finally starting to reassemble things its a real joy to work with clean parts

    IMG_5802.JPG

    Could someone tell me if I've got the brake backing plate the right way around...........ie adjuster toward rear of vehicle


    A mate brought round an old ammo box full of tools inside was this jem..........perfect for series oil filler plugs

    IMG_5807.JPGIMG_5810.JPGIMG_5812.JPG


    Cheers Paul

  7. #217
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    New front brakes and swivel balls

    IMG_2938.jpg IMG_2939.jpg IMG_2940.jpg

    New "Roaded" Land Cruiser tyres on 67Hardtop's rims...............Thanks Rod

    IMG_2934.jpg IMG_2936.jpg

    I hope I don't have any clearance issues........

    After much thought I decided not to fit free wheeling hubs as I didn't like the fact that the hub end of the axle had no support when hub was disengaged.

    In position but not fitted yet

    IMG_2937.jpgshould the wheels camber out at the top?.......looks a bit like a cartoon car

    Cheers Paul

  8. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by bemm52 View Post
    ......

    After much thought I decided not to fit free wheeling hubs as I didn't like the fact that the hub end of the axle had no support when hub was disengaged.

    .......

    IMG_2937.jpgshould the wheels camber out at the top?.......looks a bit like a cartoon car

    Cheers Paul
    1. Support for the disengages stub shaft depends on the type of hub probably - the Warn hubs I have use a roller bearing to support it when disengaged.

    2. Yes. 1.5 degrees according to the workshop manual.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post

    2. Yes. 1.5 degrees according to the workshop manual.


    Maybe I'm overthinking things but my camber would seem to be more than 1.5 degrees, 1.5 in 365 surely is barely noticeable without measuring like toe in.

    My concern is I did a complete disassemble and bought new swivel balls as old were stuffed, when reassembling I got one ball wrong fitting bearing and ryco bushes in wrong orifices (both same size)but rectified before fitting

    Is there also a handing to the swivel balls I've missed. Unfortunately I'm a very novice mechanic but figure there is a lot of logic evolved in LR design.


    Cheers Paul

  10. #220
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    Front axels

    Paul

    how did you go getting the loading right on the front swivel balls? Was it easy? Any tricks?

    cheers
    angus

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