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Thread: My 2a freshen up

  1. #91
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Bottom left, Charge light, red. Top centre, oil pressure, green, Bottom right, Cold start, orange.

    Switch top left is non-original, should be power sockets here.

    Switch below Choke is non-original.

    Push button is non-original.

    Lever switch is, as you guess, off-park-head.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  2. #92
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    The push button looks like it may have been for electric wind screen washers . Does it look like there has been washer jets fitted anywhere. One of the spare switches may have been a change over switch for fuel gauge if it has two tanks.

  3. #93
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    Thanks 1950landy the right switch is to do with fuel tanks and other push one in centre could be a windscreen washer that is now long gone

    John thanks also for your information, more concise than the manuals I've got, just a few more questions to clear this whole issue if I may

    Should red charge light be on when engine is running?

    Should green oil pressure light be on when engine is running, it was, so I'm guessing it goes out if pressure is lost

    And lastly is cold start linked to engine temperature telling me to use choke if its to cold to assist starting, I vaguely remember it coming on sometimes when I first got the motor running, but cant remember when in relation to choke/ motor?

    I don't remember any of my manual choke Holden's or Fords having a cold start light.

    Cheers Paul

  4. #94
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    Charge light and oil light should be off while engine is running

    Cheers Rod

  5. #95
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Charge light and oil light may be on when the engine is idling, but should go out at a fast idle. If they don't go out, it indicates:_

    Charge light - generator not working, or wiring problem. Ammeter should tell which. Generator may have lost its remnant magnetism, or battery is connected with wrong polarity. Originally it would have been positive earth, but is very likely to have been changed to negative earth. The remnant magnetism that gets charging started is opposite for the two, and could be restored by momentarily closing the cutout points or by momentarily shorting the Dynamo terminal on the voltage regulator to the Battery terminal. To check what it has been set up as, switch headlights on, and see whether the ammeter shows charge or discharge. If it shows charge, battery is connected with the wrong polarity.

    Oil Light - could be no oil pressure (in which case running the engine risks serious damage), faulty wiring (short circuit) or a faulty pressure switch. Test the wiring by disconnecting the wire from the pressure switch - should give no light. Check oil pressure by temporarily connecting a pressure gauge instead of the switch.

    Cold Start Light - seems to be a feature of Rover products from the thirties to the seventies, but I have not seen it elsewhere.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #96
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    orange, cold start light will be on when choke is engaged,

    goes out once you push the choke back in,

    all other light should be off in 'normal' running,

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim_AM View Post
    orange, cold start light will be on when choke is engaged,

    goes out once you push the choke back in,

    all other light should be off in 'normal' running,
    The cold star light comes on with the choke on & when the engine gets up to operating temperature & will go out when choke pushed in.
    I think the switch on S2's is on the cable & there should be a temp switch in the head to turn it on when engine gets to temp.

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post

    Cold Start Light - seems to be a feature of Rover products from the thirties to the seventies, but I have not seen it elsewhere.
    Hi JDNSW, I had a 1990 Daihatsu L80 v handi van that had a cold start light set up. Pull out choke, start engine, push choke in when light came on, just like series land rovers. They are around......just for ur info...

    Went like a 3cyl rocket...My 2a freshen up

    Cheers Rod

  9. #99
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    Had a good crack at wiring today disconnecting and labelling, today for some reason it all started to make some sense. All that's left to do is ease the loom out of firewall.


    However I have three mystery wires I'm hoping someone can help out with, steering wheel was loose and nut finger tight when I bought the vehicle horn button was out too.


    IMG_2435.jpgbrown and black cloth covered wire connects by bullet to the collar on steering column that I guess powers horn button.IMG_2434.jpg


    Where does the green wire with female spade connection go its part of original loom.

    IMG_2436.jpgI assume this wire connects to the copper tab washer that locks steering wheel nut


    IMG_2437.jpgwhere does the red wire I'm holding go to or what's its purpose somehow I missed it during labelling

    Looking forward to getting spanners out again now wiring is almost gone

    Cheers Paul
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #100
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    Hi again Paul, you are correct about the spade terminal it connects to the lock washer under the steering wheel nut, to supply earth to the horn button which in turn supplies the earth for the horn contact, on the bottom of the steering wheel, pictured,

    That rubs on the brass ring that has the wire soldered to it which makes it way through the harness to the horn. The horn has fused positive power to it constantly. The button meerly supplies the earth... on negative earth systems of course.

    Wiring is fun...for some of us...lol

    Cheers Rod

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