Thread: Bought a series2... I think.

Originally Posted by OneOff

Am I missing something here? Why don't you fit the old style thermo?

Is it this one? Also available in 74 degrees

Thats the newer style. I found one of the older style for sale and it was 280 bucks!

This photo I stole from the internet shows my issue. I have the housing on the left and require that whacky looking thermostat. What I need is the housing style on the right. I think I know a guy that should have an old one I can buy.

I have extended the arm the alternator mounts to and have the belt tightened correctly now. Didn't run as hot but still is higher up on the guage then expected. Drove to DOT and got my plates. It's all official now. I might mess around with partially blocking the bypass hose today while I sort out the housing issue. Apparently the later design doesn't use a skirted thermostat and just leaves a perminate 3/8th bleed for a bypass. So I might make something like that.

Ahah!

Mine also uses the "wacky" style as original fitment, although my thermo housing is different to both in your picture. The top piece is the same as the one on the right.



The advice I received was that because the old style thermo serves no duties blocking orifices as the later skirted version for the 2.25 does, and therefore a standard Tridon/Waxstat style from SCA will work in there.
That's what I'm doing.
Another benefit is without that big hanging down spring on the old thermo, there is room to fit a capillary sensor for a temp gauge. it's going through that round casting on the side in the above picture.

This is what I'm fitting.



Hopefully I haven't overlooked something obvious...


Oh, and congratulations on getting rego!!

I have been running my 1595cc 80" for years with any centre in the thermostat with out an issue . I can run the motor for 2 days in middle of summer & the temp gauge hardly moves, when I am runing the water pump display off the PTO. The correct thermostat for your motor has a disc on the bottom that when the thermostat opens goese down & blocks the bypass hole at the bottom. If you do put a thermostat in that doese not seal off the bypass you may find that if you have the bypass blocked full time when the thermostat opens the sudden flow of water will couse the radiator cap to lift off its seat & you wil loose about 1 to 1 1/2 llt's of water out the over flow. That's what I found with mine when I blocked it . Since I unblocked the bypass I never have to top up the radiator.
I used to have a lot of the correct thermostats but have given them all away now .

I should probably check if I am even have the temp sender in the correct spot. I assumed it belongs where I have it. But I can see the is a spot where something could go just to the lower left of it. If I remember what the internals looked like when I had the housing apart I remember thinking that the temp probe wouldn't get much flow passed it in the current position.
I suspect I have the sending where the heater is fed from. And the sender is meant to go in that lower spot...

Edit - From looking at a few online photos it looks like that exactly what I've done....

Not sure what that other plug is for , you need to chech it is not an oil gallery plug. Going by my parts book one of the heater pipes & the temp gauge goese into thermostat housing . I will post up some pick's from my parts book when I get my desk top back from repairs in next couple of days. Can't work out how to do it with the tablet. Grrrrrr

Originally Posted by 1950landy

Not sure what that other plug is for , you need to chech it is not an oil gallery plug. Going by my parts book one of the heater pipes & the temp gauge goese into thermostat housing . I will post up some pick's from my parts book when I get my desk top back from repairs in next couple of days. Can't work out how to do it with the tablet. Grrrrrr

I did some googling and found a lot of people had the water temp sender in that bottle hole and the heating pipe to the top. Didnt matter as it wasnt the issue.

I do recall when the engine was put back in the car the person helping me out suggested for such an older car to put thicker oil in plus an oil thickener. I have no idea if that could be the cause of the issue. But I might try dumping out the oil and giving it some correct oil. After that I got no idea.
I could have sworn I read not to use synthetic or semi oils in the engine, but now I cant see anything about it.

If the engine is in good condition, there is no reason for not using the recommended oils. If the clearances are higher due to wear, it can sometimes be necessary to run a thicker oil to maintain oil pressure, especially if operating in very hot conditions.

There is no reason not to run synthetic or semisynthetic oils, but you cannot use the extended oil change that these are designed to allow in engines designed for them, as neither the oil filter, the air cleaner, nor the mixture control are good enough to allow the extended oil change. So using them is simply a waste of money.

Originally Posted by singlecell

Thats the newer style. I found one of the older style for sale and it was 280 bucks!

This photo I stole from the internet shows my issue. I have the housing on the left and require that whacky looking thermostat. What I need is the housing style on the right. I think I know a guy that should have an old one I can buy.

I have extended the arm the alternator mounts to and have the belt tightened correctly now. Didn't run as hot but still is higher up on the guage then expected. Drove to DOT and got my plates. It's all official now. I might mess around with partially blocking the bypass hose today while I sort out the housing issue. Apparently the later design doesn't use a skirted thermostat and just leaves a perminate 3/8th bleed for a bypass. So I might make something like that.

I have a spare housing if you are still looking for one. I have the one on the right, but not the top outlet, just the body.