I'm convinced they play games with your GPS. No good saying you don't use it, they play games with the one in your head. That's why we don't see rangieman anymore. He can't get out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh
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I'm convinced they play games with your GPS. No good saying you don't use it, they play games with the one in your head. That's why we don't see rangieman anymore. He can't get out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh
So, today I start to check a few things, see whats going to be needed so I can organise stuff. I really want to get her to Wombat if I can [biggrin]
On taking her out of the shed to make my space a bit bigger, I noticed the brakes seem to be holding a bit. I was thinking it was probably the handbrake holding,, we all know they can play tricks. On removing the center seat and cover, I could see if the brake lever was letting go, and with the help of old age and LR precision, I can tell thats this is not a problem [bigsad]. So much for a possible easy fix.
So, up with the front wheel and see whats to be found there. Part turn and next best thing to lock up. So, off with the wheel to check things out. Seems the car may have been sitting after a water crossing to which its decided to rust somewhat in one spot. Its not much on this wheel, but I've seen it before, and if all wheels have got it, even this much, it can be a problem.
Just to be on the safe side, I'll give myself a bit more room in the shed so I can work on both sides and ends of the car, rip off all the drums, including the hand brake drum, have them skimmed and maybe replace linings if need be. This will hopefully sort the sticking problem. The brakes actually work very well, there doesn't seem to be any leaks at all that I can see, but I'll change the fluid anyway and make sure the handbrake is adjusted correctly works well.
As you can see from the other pics, it's fitted with AVM hubs. These will probably go, although the one I tested seems to be working OK. The original hubs are in the well under the pax seat, which looks like its had possibly a second battery in there too. Its got a deeper well welded/fitted into the standard factory well.
You can also see a little bit of rust on the dumb iron there. I'm going to leave this at the moment and hope the inspector doesn't see it [bigwhistle] Its only very slight and should be right, but time will tell when I pull the bumper off. I don't want to have to start welding if I can get away with it,, I just want to have it looking as it is. I don't even want to wash her, except for underneath around the usual motor, gearbox leaks etc.
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Are you sure it is rust binding your brakes , With rust normally driving with slight brake pressure will clean the drums up ok ,
I would be leaning more towards over adjusted brakes if they bind [wink11]
Drive long enough with slight brake pressure and you'll fix that as well....Quote:
Originally Posted by rangieman
And your shoes and drums [wink11]Quote:
Originally Posted by johntins
Yep. Wheel cyls love the extra heat as well. I'd rough up the shoes with some 120 grit or even a wire brush, same with the drums. Peel back the rubbers on the cyls to check for fluid, and put it back together and see what's what. That is for short term having brakes while you move it around.Quote:
Originally Posted by rangieman
As old style brake fluid is hygroscopic, I would not trust brake cylinders for very long in this circumstance. Corrosion of the bores will quickly chop out the rubber cups, and then you won't have brakes at all.
I thought about taking her for a drive, but ultimately,,, I want decent brakes,,,, if you can have that with drums [bigwhistle].
Pulling them all apart and refreshing them properly, seeing to the cylinders at the same time (kit them, sleeve/replace them whichever) will see to this, and above all, it will make Leeanne happy knowing the right things been done [wink11].
That's the way. Reason triumphs. Anyway, none of it is difficult. Well, apart from bleeding..[bigwhistle]Quote:
Originally Posted by Chops
Disc brakes are not necessarily superior to drum brakes, except that they are very resistant to the effects of water after wading - with discs the water is thrown off the friction surface, where on drums it is held there.
On the other hand, brake fade with use is more likely with drums, because the drums expand with heat, increasing pedal movement. On the other hand, because of this, it is very difficult to actually boil the brake fluid (total loss of braking) with drums.
Disc brakes are heavily dependent on power assist in almost all applications, so loss of vacuum or engine power means almost total loss of braking. The self servo action of most drum brakes means that braking is less dependent on power assist.
But the major advantages of discs are that they are easy to service, and that many mechanics today have little clue about drum brakes!
Thanks for that info John, I've never realised about the drum brake fluid not heating up disk fluid.
I see see a few people have put a booster on their old series, but that's not a plan for me, well, at least not at this point anyway. Been quite a while since I've not had a booster or disks for some time, so I'm sure it'll prove interesting.
