Thread: Marmalade the IIa

Originally Posted by 1950landy

You can at least work out what you want & best price but unless you need them to move the LR around I would be waiting .

The old ones are just fine for rolling it around. So I’ll stick with them for the time being

Wiring loom arrived today, it’s bloody nice.
Having a few issues as the car had no original wiring to go off, so am having to think about things a bit more putting it together.

Biggest issue I’m having is the ignition switch, what is supposed to run from each terminal (they’re labelled 1-4)IMG_5375.jpg

In addition, if anyone has a picture of behind the instrument panel with all the wiring connected I’d love to see it

Thanks heaps
Luca

For your long term sanity it’s worth sitting down with the wiring diagram and wiring through each colour and connect it up.

Does take time, but the understanding is a) important, b) safer. Each time you go in there you have the confidence of knowing what is what.

There’s no fuses, so get it wrong and you get smoke. (I speak from experience)

I can’t send you a pic as I can’t get home.

The main switch has a live feed (single blue I think) , main lights (brown) and then switched feeds (white). Don’t rely on my memory though!!

On mine, there are more whites than connectors so you need one piggyback connector.

Using a multi meter you can work out which ones are constant and which are switched. The wiring diagram does show the terminals.

Originally Posted by Cadas

For your long term sanity it’s worth sitting down with the wiring diagram and wiring through each colour and connect it up.

Does take time, but the understanding is a) important, b) safer. Each time you go in there you have the confidence of knowing what is what.

There’s no fuses, so get it wrong and you get smoke. (I speak from experience)

As I didn’t have an original loom to copy, the only way I can do it is by carefully following the wiring diagram, so far it hasn’t been TOO confusing

I added extra fuses - as I wasn’t that happy having two protecting the entirety of the electrical system, so now there are 6 blade fuses (which still isn’t a huge amount, but better than nothing!)

Thanks for the info re the starter switch,,I’ll attack it with a multimeter tomorrow

Cheers
Luca

As it turns out - the reason why I was having issues is the ignition switch was a series 3 one, which differs slightly in wiring order. Hence the numbers in the manual didn’t add up.


Finally starting to look like a car again!

Electrics trouble...!

When I got the car it was fitted with an aftermarket glow plug relay of some sort - as it turns out, this is because the ignition switch is half dead (ancillary and starter switch works, but the glow plug part doesn't). I tested the ignition switch when I first removed it - and determined that it was broken then, but I hoped it would somehow fix itself if I left it alone fore a few months

if anyone happens to be parting out a later type series diesel I'd love to grab the ignition switch! Was slightly... upset when I saw new diesel switches cost 3 times more than the petrol one.

Dip switch for main beam and the horn are both also dead (again, I already knew this, just hoped the shed rats would be useful for once and magic it back into functionality).

The odd thing is my indicator flasher works for the left hand, and just gives a nice solid light when indicating right - hopefully its an issue that I will be able to solve easily.

Can't get my wiper motor to self park, which I believe the late 2a's should, but I am using the series 3, 2 speed wiper style switch, as I felt $80 for a new lucas switch was a little extreme. Does anybody know the function of each wire leading to the motor (there are three: solid green, red/green and brown green)?

I also can't get the fuel gauge to work (possibly the temp. gauge as well, but haven't had the engine hot yet.)

I'd be lying if I said electrickery is my strong point.


I did manage to get my hands on a bit of a 'luxury' upgrade from a fantastic bloke on gumtree - a smiths round heater, admittedly for a Morris, but it I reckon it'll fit perfectly well. It passed a pressure test with flying colours, and is in good nick cosmetically (missing a chunk out of the Bakelite cover face, but its not the end of the world).
unfortunately the motor is dead (that dreaded electrickery again!!!), but I knew that when I bought it - as I got it for less than the price of a new wiper switch, I'm not too fussed at all.
IMG_5466.jpg
Aside from the electrical issues, its all going fairly well... not too far off now
IMG_5447.jpg

Originally Posted by Ypsilophora

Electrics trouble...!

When I got the car it was fitted with an aftermarket glow plug relay of some sort - as it turns out, this is because the ignition switch is half dead (ancillary and starter switch works, but the glow plug part doesn't). I tested the ignition switch when I first removed it - and determined that it was broken then, but I hoped it would somehow fix itself if I left it alone fore a few months

if anyone happens to be parting out a later type series diesel I'd love to grab the ignition switch! Was slightly... upset when I saw new diesel switches cost 3 times more than the petrol one.

Dip switch for main beam and the horn are both also dead (again, I already knew this, just hoped the shed rats would be useful for once and magic it back into functionality).

The odd thing is my indicator flasher works for the left hand, and just gives a nice solid light when indicating right - hopefully its an issue that I will be able to solve easily.

Can't get my wiper motor to self park, which I believe the late 2a's should, but I am using the series 3, 2 speed wiper style switch, as I felt $80 for a new lucas switch was a little extreme. Does anybody know the function of each wire leading to the motor (there are three: solid green, red/green and brown green)?

I also can't get the fuel gauge to work (possibly the temp. gauge as well, but haven't had the engine hot yet.)

I'd be lying if I said electrickery is my strong point.


I did manage to get my hands on a bit of a 'luxury' upgrade from a fantastic bloke on gumtree - a smiths round heater, admittedly for a Morris, but it I reckon it'll fit perfectly well. It passed a pressure test with flying colours, and is in good nick cosmetically (missing a chunk out of the Bakelite cover face, but its not the end of the world).
unfortunately the motor is dead (that dreaded electrickery again!!!), but I knew that when I bought it - as I got it for less than the price of a new wiper switch, I'm not too fussed at all.
IMG_5466.jpg
Aside from the electrical issues, its all going fairly well... not too far off now
IMG_5447.jpg

I have found that with these old electric’s, the internal contacts often just need a clean. Much of the componentry is comparatively simple so easy enough to investigate problems and rebuild them. Try levering back the tabs on the dip switch, pulling the guts out, and rubbing back the contact surfaces, to see if that fixes the problem. Easy enough to bench test it with a multimeter. With the horn, have you established if it is the button, or the horn itself (or perhaps the wiring in between)?

Cheers,

Matt

Hey Matt,

I think I might give that a go with the dip switch. The horn itself doesn’t work when connected directly to the battery, and the multimeter shows the wiring is all good (to me a fair while to get the push button to make contact properly. It’s a bit of a silly design!

Cheers
Luca