2A SWB Diesel Rebuild

**Grover-98** · 23rd December 2009, 11:46 AM

Originally Posted by Shonky

chassis number should be on the rear left shackle bracket. (ie: the upside down triangle bit on the chassis that the spring shackle bolts to) Take a wire brush and a rag - it will be buried under rust.

There should also be a nomenclature plate either in the dash (usually passenger side) or on the side of the seat box. It will look something like this:

I will head on down later on today again when it cools off

and ill post up the numbers in REMLR.

What is a workshop? This.

Series 2A RAEME LAND-ROVERS -REMLR

This one is mine:

"Party Bus" 108-616 - Shonky's 1963 Series IIA Workshop

And this is what they look like when restored: (Dintys)

2A 109 Wshop restored -REMLR

Even if you don't plan on getting to it anytime soon, it would be handy to know what the numbers are.

You never know - you might have one that went to Vietnam, or one that there are pictures of in the archives.

There are some nice examples there! looks like you too have nice project or two or many to work on as will! i look forward to seeing the finished product. You have inspired me to find out more... i know the chances of it actually being from service etc to be slim but may as ell have a look

That shorty looks great too!

What year is it? It's going to be a big job but I'm sure you will do it justice.

Thank you! i love the Shorty i have been wanting one since i as long as i can remember and this one is perfect i always wanted a 2a and a 2.25 Diesel in Bronze Green...as for its year i believe it too be a 62-66? as the diesels changed to 2.25 in 62? and they changed to one wiper motor in 67? but i will get the numbers for a specific date

I don't think i will do it as much justice as others on here would, as this is my first project... and im new to a lot of the things which need doing and money is tight. But non the less that doesn't stop me from dreaming of the first day i put that rego sticker on and hit the tracks

James.

**Shonky** · 23rd December 2009, 01:15 PM

Thats the attitude!

I started out much the same way - a cheap shorty and a lot to learn.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...es-ii-swb.html

Still haven't finished, but not far off. Have you named your shorty yet?

PS - longing4alandy has a thread going on his 2A Shorty aswell. He is converting his to diesel so it would probably be of interest to you.

**Grover-98** · 23rd December 2009, 01:46 PM

Of course i have named him! i couldnt imagine not naming a 4x4... my list of babies are as follows.

Range Rover- Oscar
Discovery- Grover
109- Rambo
88- Skippy or Skip

and then the Sierra named Busta due to the harsh life i give it... its not the straightest Sierra.

James.

**Shonky** · 23rd December 2009, 04:31 PM

I knew you had a Disco named Grover, and I have seen your exploits with that poor defenseless zook...

I like Skippy - cool name!

**Grover-98** · 24th December 2009, 02:53 PM

I thought skippy suited it the very first time i took it for a drive

gotta love that shorty hop. You havnt seen the least of what i put that zook through! i must say its won a spot in my heart im fond of the little Sierras now...

Here is a short clip of me on one of the tracks just 100m from my door step

(Sorry was filmed on a mates phone)

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTWhF2HIPPs"]YouTube- Suzuki Sierra lifting a wheel[/ame]

Ah memories! should get back out there in the old girl... or maybe take Skip up there

**series3** · 26th December 2009, 12:34 PM

nice one james, the series looks good! I'll be very interested to see how it all pans out. good to see you got one after the close misses you had

**Grover-98** · 27th December 2009, 04:52 PM

I have been looking around doing some pricing for getting the brakes done on the old girl so i can move her around the property.

I have found a new master cylinder for $100 and a set of wheel cylinders for $140 or i can pick up a set of wheel cylinders for $200 from my local Landy mechanic. And i have found a complete set of brake shoes for just $40

Do these prices sound fair? or what ball park should i be looking for? or do you know of any going cheap?

I have also been pricing some suspension parts i will clean up the original leafs and replace the rubbers. I have found these on ebay what do you guys think? again if you know of a cheaper alternative please let me know

These will be my first two parts of repair as i plan on working from the ground up

My next step will be to find the leak in the cooling system and get that sorted out/ then fix up all the rust/then the electrics followed by the aesthetics ie: lick of paint and some panel beating.

Im trying my hardest not to get ahead of myself! but i cant help it, heck i spend everyday dreaming up ways i could afford a new Range Rover Vogue on a casual wage

I look forward to you help! as i hope to get some work done soon...

James.

**peterg1001** · 27th December 2009, 05:22 PM

For the brake cylinders, first of all work out the part numbers you need - not always straightforward, as there are a number of permutations available.

You probably need some combination of 243296, 243297, 243302, 243303, 243743, 273744 for the wheels, and 520849, 564706 or 569339 for the master.

Then try:

Gary at CLR 4WD 4754 2642
Brian at Land Vehicle Spares 4774 1741
Maybe All4x4 seeing you're in Newcastle
Have a look at lrseries.com - they're cheap, but as they're in the UK you need to factor in postage.

Peter

**chazza** · 27th December 2009, 05:24 PM

Check out Paddock Spares - Land Rover, Range Rover Parts & Accessories - Discovery, Defender and Freelander

Cheers Charlie

**Shonky** · 27th December 2009, 05:37 PM

Those prices are about the going rate.

If you intend on replacing the suspension bushes, be prepared for a fight! I have had success with melting the rubber out with oxy or a blowtorch, and then pressing out the centre or drifting it out. Cut the outer shell with a hacksaw and then after a bit of heating and a lot of WD40 it should belt out!

The ones on eBay I assume are from Garry Gjerde (GarryCLR) and if so are quite okay.

There's a drain tap on the left hand side of the block under the manifolds - hiding.

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